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I did spray the lock with brake cleaner and worked the catch a little. Then I loosened the stricker a little, just to give it a little movement, and I shut the door a few times to line up the catch and then retightened the stricker.

Have so far failed miserably at getting the steering wheel off. I’ve even tried a bearing puller.

Cheers guys, all sorted.

Anyone else suffer from this. The drivers side door won’t shut unless I really close it hard. It’s definitely getting worse. The door alines absolutely fine, so I’m guessing it’s the lock.

Can anyone enlighten me as to when the steering wheel bosses changed from 36 to 48 splines? Looking to change mine for something slightly smaller.

Harley-Davidson, still have two.

It’s in a garage and when out I always use a steering wheel lock. If I’m leaving it for any length of time I use a pedal box.

To be honest, that’s a little outside of my expertise. I don’t know how check it. As far as I’m aware, if the brake light isn’t fitted it isn’t an MOT failure.

So the lower connector on the right is the live and the two outer connectors are the earths. There is a good connection with both earths. I was wondering if the heater element at the top, where the brake light would be, is a little mangled.

I’ve been rather remiss and not introduced myself. Bought myself a 2005 Defender 90 TD5 about 6 months ago. Used to be a lot more into bikes but having moved to the countryside the Defender is much more useful. Love owning it and will be taking it across to Normandy at Easter for a four day tour.

As the title says. It has power, first thing I checked, but nothing happens when I use it. It looks to of had a high level brake light fitted at some time but I can’t see how removing it would cause the problem. Anything else I can check or is a new rear screen the only answer?

I could even pop up to see you and get you to do it as you’re only up the road from me. I’m in Stow on the Wold. Seriously though, I’d love to see the post.

Any chance of a link

Thinking of getting the underneath of the Landry waxoiled and was wondering if anyone has used this company and what was the experience like.

Picked it up today and the clutch feels so much lighter. Painful, yes but it should be good for many years.

So I’ve booked it in for tomorrow and will update when I get the final invoice. I also asked at another local Land Rover specialist, who had just done a clutch with all the added ancillaries. They had charged £1800.

It’s a real worst case scenario, if it needs everything, including a new dmf. I’m guessing it would probably be a few hundred quid less if it doesn’t need the slave and master cylinders.

The clutch on my 05 TD5 Defender has gone. I’ve been quoted, on a worse case scenario of needing slave and master cylinders, a price of £1600. Is this really what they cost to supply and fit?

Recently fitted new felt to the rear windows on my 90. Relatively easy, as said above, watch the video and buy some of those little pick and hook tools. They make the job easier.