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Hi Robj, As Nodge said, i would expect them to be interchangeable. Land Rover have also released an uprated oil rail, I just replaced mine last weekend on my 1.8 series petrol 2000 model, having put up old against new, the new has about 4 or 5 holes on one side whereas the old has no such...

Hi all, well, last weekend I removed the sump and renewed the oil rail with the newer uprated one as recommended by Land Rover, following which, I fitted the MLS head gasket and shim with new head bolts, and sprayed Hylomar sealant on all the following : on the engine block, on both sides of...

Hi Hippo, haven't got around to it yet, it's possibly going to be for the 2nd weekend from now as last weekend i put the head gasket on my 1.8K series together with the stronger oil rail as recommended by Land Rover. As recommended by the engine reconditioning specialist, I sprayed Hylomar...

Hi Zefrench, thanks for that. Havent been here for a while been a lill busy with work. Thanks for that link, this time i'm going to do it the right way, no more head gasket without the oil rail. So today, I renewed the radiator, the 1.8 K series is so much simpler having done the same job...

Still thinking of taking it back to those who worked on it before, Craigs Automatic Transmissions @ Chipping Norton, they've worked on the JF506E previously, i mean sure it'll cost but i'd rather the pro for such an important task.

For real, i had to mention this, one female person I know rang this garage once to enquire about getting her Japanese four wheel drive repaired which had coolant weeping from the head. The guy on the other end of the phone kept referring, during the conversation, to the work as "head job". She...

Hi all, regarding the Jatco JF506E, how hard would it be to renew the wiring loom that carries on it the fluid temp sensor? I have the parts, 3 new speed sensors and the fluid temp sensor which is part of the wiring loom, and while at it, i also have a new auto trans filter. I see it seems...

The mobile guy came and blasted the engine block to Smithereens and the cylinder head to kingdom come! LOL mind the language it's just my excitement as it's still the weekend... Anyways, 3 'strings' came out of the block, i'd been trying to fish them out unsuccessfully, i tried using wire, no...

I guess I'm panaroid of seeing dripping coolant coming from the cylinder head area all round, thus, anything which will aid in clamping is worth looking in to. The uprated oil rail is stronger, so I'm thinking, RTV (very light coat, i stress, very light) + uprated oil ladder = less panic, less...

I think it's a deal, will order it, from what i've been reading, i'd be silly to not fit the uprated oil bearing ladder.

You know the more i've been reading about the updated oil rail, i think to myself that i need to get it and it's my chance to fit it now that i have the chance to do so.

Thanks guys but I will be as everyone who has used it on MLS has sworn by it. I know there's probably nobody here from Australia, but for my KV6 Freelander when i removed the 2 heads last year, i also removed the block, and took the 2 heads and the block to Karl's Head at Seven Hills (NSW) whose...

In the meantime, my other post, i;'ve received the sensors for the KV6 box and will refit these and get it going but have left this to wait as the 1.8 comes first. The 1.8 is so simple to work on and take apart after having done same on the KV6..

To get that debris cleared between the tiny space between lines, i tried a skinny spatula which i shoved down there followed by a blade... i got it cleared, but as i was getting the 4 blades out of the paper/plastic packaging, i should have grabbed a pair of scissors to cut open the pack - I...

Thanks for that, after reading, I knew where I could expect coolant to pass through and i used a screwdriver to clear the debris in that tiny connecting passageway from the inlet to the exhaust sides of the block between each liner and voilla, as soon as the level of coolant starts to grow in...

The summary could be consistent in why there always seems to be more coolant in the "exhaust valve seats" as opposed to only "a small amount" being "bled through to the inlet valve seats". That seems consistent with mine and i couldn't work out why there's always more coolant in the exhaust...

Thanks for that link lodge, the following i quote from one of the posters on that link seems to sum it up; "if you look at the flow path it is slightly different to old school engines as coolant flows from the pump at the rear of the liners and a small amount is bled though onto the inlet...

Update, i've done research which directly challenges the stated fact that the coolant cavities in the engine block are interconnected with one another when the cylinder head is removed. Consider my investigation as follows; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSM3UW1nkls On the above video...

Ok thanks, so the connecting tunnels (if i can call them that) that let coolant flow from the inlet to the exhaust side of the block, are these tunnels at the block edges next to cylinders 1 and 4, or are they at each side of each of the cylinders except right at the edges of the block for...

Cheers Northern Islander, thanks for that. I notice you mentioned the head, I already got all of that unblocked courtesy of some WD40 in conjunction with a flat screwdriver and high pressure trigger via a mere garden hose. I got all of the tiny passages in the head unblocked and can confirm...