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Tbh whatever is on the bench, did nsr rrs caliper sliders the other day using some fancy blue grease meant for a baler!

Volts mean squat, lower volt ie 12v normally draws more amps than say 24v would.

Wd40 is pure dog crap. I just put ordinary grease on the sliders. Do check that the piston retracts nice and smoothly as it could also be a genuine caliper fault.

Might be the switch then, might not be rated for the current?

Real old tech and uses the lever switch itself to move the leccy around, pop the binnacle off and you will see it all on the left hand side.

Caliper slides are a favourite on disc brakes, if this one is tight they will all need a strip and lube, easy peasy job. Park brake shoe adjuster is top one side and bottom the other side, sorry never can remember which side!

Chassis number match log book? if yes don't worry. Chassis is all that matters, the rest is just dressing.

Because the finance co will own a share of the car, and if the car is worthless with a blown engine then that effects them to, plus of course once past so many payments (1/2 maybe?) you can hand it back, then it is their baby to sort out. Little point on asking the seller about their price as it...

Front to rear brake pipes are an arse job on the d3/4/rrr. Centre bearing means new propshaft on these, about 300 for the prop. You will find garages will avoid the d3/4/rr just as they do the series/defenders as they always go balls up and cost more than expected. As said above get your...

When I got mine about 10 or so years ago, I had a real job finding one, in the end the one I bought needed loads of refurb work as it looked to have been used in the timber industry and was pretty shagged, think I pad circa 250 for it.

Lynall pronounced Lionel, why it got spelt like that I have no idea, but more people know me as Lynall than my proper name. Started about 35 plus years ago, another mech came into the tea room and said Richie san you give me a hand? then **** taker dick coe (lower case as he was a cock!) said...

Not from me as I already have one. Might be worth showing pics of the pto/shafting/support bearings/lever and linkages. Also worth mentioning with some shaft length adjustments it should fit pretty much any defender up to and possibly including the td5, giving you a bigger audience. I reckon...

Nice car tha A6 with the 3,0 engine.

My D3 has the swinging weights.

I noticed at the rear of the chassis there are two small Gas strutts that go up to mounts right next to the rear body mounts, are they some sort of harmonic damper?

1.4s are cheap as everybody wants the 1.2s.

I reckon them bearings are just about done, quite a common fail on older 200 motors, when really bad they can move and cause low oil pressure. From memory I think that flat on the cam is normal, when you order the bearings from Turners maybe ask them?

Daily or a toy? if toy check the brakes are not getting warm, had it once where m/cyl started to seize and eventually all four brakes stuck on.

Google disco3forum, then have and ask on there as the guy who owns/runs the forums also does RR ones.

I had in my mind it was just the damper itself, but if all that has to come off I would say new crank time, or crank rework time. Item number 4, two of, so I would have to assume cam drive gear has its own separate key.