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Do you have one of Marty's FoB filters fitted ? Both mine have them, but one refuses to do the auto window close on the fob, but works on the key. The one with a newer filter works fine !! Marty did mention they improved the code over time though.

I'm assuming it's a late L322 at 2012 ? First check is, does the compressor produce enough pressure to toggle the pressure switch. (I think on later systems it's around 200psi). If not consider a rebuild kit & DIY it. I did a later Mercedes compressor for my bench, and it was actually...

Key switch should toggle 0v-12v when turning the key, i.e. 12V with key in centre, and ground when you turn the key. CDL should be 12V when door is locked (switch open), and Ground when door is unlocked. This way the BECM knows if you are turning the key right or left, and the door...

Definitely stay away from the one with no pictures !! Look at several, and do insurance quotes & MOT History checks before you even visit (I usually avoid dealers that hide the number plate). Then test drive for at least 10-20 miles on local roads & either dual carriage way, or motorway...

or as you have the starter motor out of the way, use a pry bar or large screwdirver in the flywheel cogs.

I agree . . it's LR Red.

Definitely rotate the motor & then use the screwdriver alternately on opposite sides of the crank. Also make sure you have loosened the grub screw sufficently. It will not hurt to use some penetrating fluid, as long as you clean it thoroughly afterwards.

I used a lower cost one from Cats2U on one of my P38's. The emissions were vastly improved, but only just in spec. MOT man passed it though as the cats were obviously new !!

Maybe the early BECM are different to mine ? He has a 1995, but I tested it on my 1998. Another possibility is the GEMS ECU could have the security disabled ? (There is an LR bulletin on how to do it)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/296826455790 in UK https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235504467208 in Germany I doubt either would be selling if it contained asbestos ?

I had the seat fuse issue on my passenger seat. It would randomly blow the fuse even with nobody sitting on it. Disconnected the lumbar pump wiring, and now everything else works without blowing the fuse.

Couple of corrections. 1) Kieth is correct about the EKA, but (sorry Keith), only for the diesel. On GEMS disabling the EKA just prevents you from entering it, but does not stop it being required if only using the key. Yes I've tried it on mine to be sure !! (re-enabled it afterwards) 2)...

The gap between the metal pipes & matrix is definitely at an angle in that picture. Does look mis-aligned to me ?

You will also need a pair of reducers to go between the matrix hoses & the engine hoses. Can't remember the size, but there's threads on here with the correct size. Nissens 70220 has 17mm fittings. I think the engine bay needs 19mm ?

That's what I have in one of mine. Originally did it because the LR matrix had broken plastic flange & the aluminium pipe ends were also bent by the PO.

I have same roof rail leak problem on one of my P38's. Must get around to sorting it soon.

Stored (but fixed) faults are good when buying any car - especially if the salesman doesn't know the difference !!

+1 on just unplug the bonnet switch. Also with driver's door open close the latch with a screw driver, so the BECM thinks the door is closed & you still have access to the BECM fuses for the tests.

Go through the battery drain checks in the BECM System Info doc. I'm sure I posted it on here a while back, but here's the section again just in case.

Must be quite an old battery ?? Most don't have caps like that anymore ?