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I do but I am trying to avoid having to do that if I can. That was my guess as well. But I do not like the idea of a full light bar. If it fails you lose all, if it breaks you lose all, I would much rather just need to replace a single light than the whole thing.

Just an update to this I have found the one I have currently but is no longer sold LINK Does anyone know of any similar on the market or have an old one tucked in the corner of the shed I could purchase?

Based on that pic I don’t see the point of mounting the spotlights separately. As they would certianly Be blocked. Would be better pointing to the bull at on a separate switch so they can be turned off when in that position. If you still need extra light when in use you want a roof bar or old...

You will find we are generally less delicate than the people of instabook etc. here. Your bumper looks like it has a nice flat top to it so should be easy enough to knock up some brackets to support a bullbar with a pin to allow them to fold down.

Not necessarily true, he may be going for an underslung setup for the gaylander owners so the spotlights are not be obscured and will illuminate the set for the additional film rights revenue

Nor did I and I could not find it on their website, it was only when I phone them saying "I am looking for this and it seems like the sort of thing you will make" that i was point towards the information. I am a big fan of YRM (accept the price quickly adding up on an order) and have used them...

Having said that you now absolutely need to tell us what you are planning on using it for! especially the comment about night use... A lot of HGV "bull bars" are foldable, both American/Australian style trucks and the European cabover design as they need to fold down to allow the cab to tilt...

I agree and always use genuine piston seals for the same reason. the callipers I am currently rebuilding were very bad and had sat off the vehicle for a long time so all the seals were hard and brittle.

I am looking at repairing the seatbelt mount and chassis mount at the front of my tub currently. YRM do the repair panels for both above and below the tub which I am looking at using: LINK From you above description have you just made your own version of this repair panel?

On closer inspection the bits that I am missing an are broken are the green lens these screw into! on a couple of my spare gauges the lens has disintegrated but this part is still going strong.

On some extensive googling and trawling back through previous invoices does RTC1137 sound correct for the rear caliper crossover seal?

First question is about bleed nipples. what is the best material for them to be made from, I can find brass, mild steel and stainless steel versions. Which one is best for long term usage? Second question is more specific. I am not new to rebuilding calipers, and have done it several times...

If you are doing the job yourself it virtually never pays for itself to go stainless due to the price difference. You need to swap it something like 10 times to break even which is 30 odd years of use. However having said that that is based purely on parts cost. If you are paying someone else to...

Do you mean the steering column shroud itself or all of the bolts and screws? I would just order a mixed box of stainless screws and use them, rather than ordering screws by part number. It will probably be the same price for a couple of hundred assorted stainless as it will be for the 4...

I can measure and check for you, and see if my friend remembers (I bought all of the parts left in his shed when he emigrated so I did not get it done myself), however, I probably have the shells for it in the box of engine rebuild parts so will check what size they are as well.

Whereas I wish you nothing but luck in your search, and it may be slightly different as it looks like the vehicle is not in current use, just be aware that no amount of money or historic stories could make me part with either, my 110 (first car I ever bought at 18 and still my daily driver) or...

Also to update this I unfortunately only found one at Malvern, as in a single bumperette, so didn't bother buying it as unless there is a pair I feel they will look very silly, and my chances of then finding another single for sale I feel is far less than finding a good pair..

If you look closely behind my MGA you will notice that although they have marked up the bays for horrible electric vehicles they have not actually installed the chargers yet so we felt it perfectly acceptable to block the modern plastic monstrosities with british classics.

Are these the ones that screw into the green part inside the gauge? If so I may be interested in a couple, last time I broke one I bought an butchered a couple of old temp guages!

This^^^ LEDs are very sensitive fluctuations and require good cabling and connections. On mine I have added an extra eart so in the rear corner all of the earths go to the earth screw which has been replaced with a bolt and then on the underside of the bolt I have an additional cable running...