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How early? The inside of them changed from S2 to S3 because the dashboard is different. There are also diffences between vent flaps too (stop sniggering :) ) Otherwise, one will bolt in place of the other as the chassis mountings are the same.

I am now confused? Are you trying to use a Tdi rad with a 2.5 petrol?

Keep it simple :) Main power leads from battery (you can use the normal engine one if it is just for the occasional "get you outta s**t" type usage) I then use an old RR/Disco electric window switch in the cab so I can operate the winch from in there without the need for the remote/wander...

I like :) I do like the 100 inch hybrid idea. To be honest it could be better finished than it is, but the engine, body style and wheel base all add up to a good all-rounder. Two of the two runners in our trials championship this year are running similar trucks.

well...........you could use a 200Tdi radiator :) (assuming that you are getting a complete donor car)

You can check the oil pump is working by removing the cooler pipes and popping the ends in a bucket and running the engine.....this will drive the pump and rapidly fill the bucket with ATF. WARNING, it can get messy! To be honest it sounds like a failing 'A' clutch to me.

@MHM, yes to all you say. I wasn't reading the posts closely enough. I also agree with "quattro" above; that is an easy check as well. Remember to chock wheels and/or have someone sat in the drivers seat ready to use the brakes! :)

Just re-read that.....does sound like a transfer box problem actually :doh:

Really!? Not a CV or diff in the front axle then? :)

Get an assistant to check underneath (or select the gears) and see if one of the prop shafts is spinning when in gear with the engine running (wheels chocked, foot on brake as a precaution). If one of the props is spinning then this indicates a drive problem in that axle, otherwise it is a...

I made up a puller. Flat bit of steel to go across the end of the crank with 3 holes in it that match the holes in the pulley. This is where the damper bolted; in fact you can use the damper as a pattern for the bolt holes IIRC. I'll see if I can find it and take a picture.

^^^ that would tell you if it was the gearbox or not ^^^ However, I have my doubts that it is the rear diff. (shrug)

Engine hoist is the only special tool I can think of. The hoist has to have a fairly high lift/long reach as the front panel is non-removeable on a Discovery.

This coming weekend I will be up Swindon way. Let me know if you aren't sorted by then. :)

Hi there and welcome to the 'Zone :welcome2:

Hi there and welcome to the 'Zone :welcome2:

I have had to weld bars to the end of these shafts before now to pull them out......obviously as a last resort if you are going to replace the shaft anyway.

And you'll be surprised what they call an off-cut. I paid £5 for a 6x4 foot sheet of 16 gauge; good enough for footwell repairs.

Other way round MHM, later modification has a lipped crank sprocket and plain tensioner....on 300Tdi.

To follow up on the chassis notch issue; I found a picture that I took of the 'scoop'. Provided for information only, make your own decision whether you want to do it this way or not when fitting to a Discovery 200Tdi to a LWB Series.