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Dayco are the OEM for the 200TDi belt. I have fitted those and Gates with no problems.

@mucky'un. Do you mean a 2.8:1 ratio?

Sorry I meant the original posters location :D

Ditto that. They are not hard to setup or check. It is basically pinion height and crownwheel backlash.

As you have already made the change to diesel it might be worth thinking about going with a TDi.

Shortening a prop is relatively easy. I have done it a few times. Also instead of lengthening one it is best as you suggest to start with a long one and shorten that. For a series I would start with a 109 or RRC/Disco rear prop and go from there. BTW, have you checked that with a shorter rear...

IIRC you will need to bolt a TD flywheel housing to the back of a Discovery 300Tdi to get it to mate to an Defender LT77. I guess you know the rest about exhaust and engine mounts. :D

Well..... :rolleyes: :) It's up to you. I have about a month lead time at the moment. PM if you want and we can discuss it that way.

You will need and adaptor plate to mate V8 to Series box. Also some foot wheel mods, engine mounts, exhaust blah blah blah. Lwt chassis and body work is narrower than the std Series.

You will still need exhaust mods and some where to put the intercooler.

I am only talking about a piece about 50mm x 30mm x 100mm. The 'notching' is required only on one side of the chassis. The overall depth after the 'notching' is still as least as much as the SWB chassis (which I would assume is not weak in a front impact). ...as I say....swings and...

Yes, and LWB fronts onto a SWB are also an improvement; but you will still need to do some maintenance :)

...but you have to weld new mounts onto the chassis as they are in a different place to the 200. Swings and roundabouts. :)

I've just re-read that bit.......it wasn't apparent to me that you already had RR diffs in the axles. I'll admit that drums brakes take more maintenance and don't like prolonged dunking in water or mud; I used to trial a Series LR and I know what the brakes can be like. Popping the drums off...

I last sold a pair of Series diffs for a tenner......how easy and cheap do you want it :) If I maybe serious, you will find it a lot of work to fit the RR axles.

You will find that the steering arms are different. The track bar (the one behind the axle) on the RR goes thru the space occupied by the leaf springs. Sell them on an get a new Series diff. It will be a whole lot easier.

Try a jump lead from earth on battery to engine block or body of starter motor. If engine spins quicker and start better then it is what ^^^ MHM ^^^ says.

Didn't get that much of a change on my 2 inch lift Discovery....and certainly not seem as much as 6mm until upto 4 inch lift, but that is a whole other world of hurt :D LR build quality?! (shrug) :)

A paddle clutch is more for high horse power applications. It 'grips' more the hotter it gets, but it does mean that your clutch will be more like an on/off switch. I would recommend an AP clutch for a Defender 130.

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