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Thank you for such a useful response. I also appreciate how quickly you replied. It can't have been easy to provide so much useful information as you came out of the pub at 23:18.

thanks, but it's worth it to pay £50 more to get one from someone that I trust who's only a 20 minute drive from me, and I need some other parts off him as well.

there are no scrappies in London

I've been offered a known good IRD from a facelift 1.8 for £125. I might just grab it to save hassle.

I'm away for a few days, but I'll try when I come back

although in that post he says "From 3500rpm @ barely 120kph, i can now comfortably do 140kph at 4000rpm". Well, 120 / 3500 X 4000 = 137. hmm

This post suggests that different IRDs have different ratios: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/can-i-install-ird-from-2-5l-v6-in-a-1-8l-freelander.220935/post-2629662

I don't know the specific answer, but, it is part of the reason that I want to stick with a 1.8 K series IRD as it gives the lowest gear ratios possible, which will help. It should be geared about 8% lower than the V6.

The bottom engine mounts are very different. V6 on the left, K1.8 on the right:- in terms of fore and aft the hole that bolts to the subframe looks about the same. The IRD looks like it sits a little higher on the V6, but the 1.8 arm is so long I don't think that will be a problem. What you...

I did achieve a couple of things yesterday. There is a metal coolant pipe across the back of the engine which hits the Jatco transmission because it's taller and has the starter motor on the top. I heated it up and bent it up a couple of cm and now it fits:- also I got the drivers side engine...

this is what I broke Ashtrans aren't that far from me (less than one hour drive). I might ask them to rebuild it for me.

according to this post https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/final-drive-ratio.199952/ the ratios are:- Td4 engine with manual gearbox 3.182 : 1 Td4 engine with automatic gearbox 2.91 : 1 K1.8 engine 4.200 : 1 KV6 engine 3.66 : 1 so, only a K1.8 IRD will match my rear diff. Also it's the...

Has anyone here ever rebuilt an IRD? I just broke the casing of my 1.8 so I'll have to rehouse the internals into another one, probably the one from our old crashed TD4 that sat in the back garden for two years (just the IRD, not the car).

as I'm using a V6 Freelander transmission with the V6 transmission mount, the gearbox and IRD will be exactly where they are in a V6. Like an idiot I assumed that this would put the IRD in the same place as it is on a K series, but it isn't. Concerning engine to IRD alignment I have a couple of...

I think it probably will. I'm just guessing though.

oh and some major head scratching with the inductor ring for the crank sensor. The tooth pattern for a Rover 75 is actually reversed compared to a Freelander. I thought I had it wrong but after checking with Andy he confirmed that they changed the logic in the ECU firmware. It's almost as if...

You can use SavvyCAN on Windows but it's fussier about what adapter to use. I got the Rusoku Toucan to work.

I had some clearance issues with plate hitting bits that stick out of the cylinder head It's in:- :):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):) The engine is pushed over a bit more than I thought:- I had assumed that the IRD sits in the same place, irrespective of what engine / transmission, but...

so what's the conclusion? Carlube ATF-U or Texamatic 7045E ? it sounds like Texamatic 7045E is closer to OEM and so will drive better from cold; have I understood correctly?

the whole shaft moves in and out. I don't think that the cog is designed to be removable from the shaft anyway. it's sort of crimped on and once removed (if even possible) I don't think I would trust it anymore.