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I have the RM ones and they are the dogs doo dahs. With standard ones you will have them rusting within a couple of years.

Low fuel light was on Diesels. The fuel level sender on the top of the tank will have three connectors if compatible. Earth, fuel level and low fuel. Reverse lights should be switch via a switch set in the bracket over the selectors on the top of the gear box. You can see the switch (looks like...

1. Yes, 12v supply. 2. Yes main beam. Push the indicator stalk away from you. (Towards you to flash). 3. That is a hazard symbol. As you have the switch, it will have to work for an MOT 4. It will light or flicker when starting. If it comes on when driving, your battery is not being charged...

Bastard. Reported.

I had this on my 72 S3 SWB. I replaced the detent springs and balls and problem has gone. Pennies to fix, and you will probably find you only need to change the springs. This would mean that you don't even need to take the top of the gbox. J

Nice one. I like it! :D

Tiger seal. Just glue the fecker.

yep lrseries sell 'em.

I have heated screens in my series, I got them from Ricky Evans. Top Bloke. Heated Windscreens - Land Rover Heated Windscreens Not the most exciting of vids... but I posted this on youtube. Land Rover Series heated Windscreen - YouTube

But you won't get a classic policy if you are under 25 (or 21 with some I believe). Having said that, forget confused and other online search engines - you need to talk to a specialist who knows Landies then you will start to get more realistic quotes.

That increases gearing in ALL gears... so your low range will not be as low as it was. An O/D is the preferable option. J

Well just for info, I have 5K in my 72 88" with a 200Di and am perfectly happy with the single line 10" brake system. A 109" will have an 11" system anyway I think.

Think about it... you are using the brakes to stop... and stopping from 50 takes the same braking effort wether you used a 2.25P or 200TDi or V8 to get up to that speed!

Rob, I answered you in your other thread. J

Rob, if you are going Di, then you could use the standard 2.25 diesel down pipe and a standard diesel exhaust (real cheap). The you need no exhaust adaptor, fabrication, turbo blanking plate etc. You can sell the existing manifold a turbo for some pennies. Check glencoynes site for step by step...

Yep tons are in error using illegal ID. tbh many are just innocent mistakes (but I guess that makes no difference in the eyes of the law), but many are deliberate. Glad to help over the wiper cable, yep, would have been a nightmare to sort out later! Good luck with the rest of the build. J

unless you try and dig with it.

Hi Chap, well done for what you have done. I have spotted a problem (if the pic shows what I think... http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee473/ieuandavies/Land%20Rover%20Series%203%20Rebuild/P150112_1206.jpg The rod from the wiper motor appears to go above both wheel boxes - this is wrong...

I think that Heystee actually make the very best parabolics - but you better have deeeeeep pockets!

Matt, here are the pics. I has a 5wire connector block so do you know what wires I need to connect to test the blower? Just red n black I presume...