Flasher Relay

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meego

Well-Known Member
Posts
12,493
Location
Caledonia
I think I’ve done this in somehow. I tested it in my tester and I’m getting nothing. I’ve been trying to get the indicators to work and I could hear the relay that sits behind the fuse board clicking away, but now it’s not. Searched up for a new one, it’s a Hella TB 64, and used they are nearly £50 😳
If I need one I’ll get it, but I’m now bricking it to fit a new/replacement one in case it goes again. Any electrickery experts out there who can advise please ?

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Ok. I think I know where I’ve balls’d it up. I got some led lights for the back and I was messing about trying to get them to work a while back. I’m thinking the existing relay doesn’t like led’s and that’s what the issue is. I’m now thinking of buying the Wipac LED kit as it’s around £160 and comes with a suitable relay.
 
Tyically the LED bulbs will effect a resistive relay from working as the bulbs take very little current so the relay doesn't heat up enough to turn on and off in the ususal 'lazy fashion'
If a bulb goes the relay will speed up the process and the remaining bulbs 'flicker'.

To overcome this effect there are several sellers that offer a variable resistor relay ..
like this one ...

(other sellers are available)

This works with up to two LED's per circuit.
As we (Defenderers) have 3 things can get somewhat confusing for the circuitry.
You can cure this by using standard T5 bulbs in the side repeaters and setting the resistance so that all indicators flash and the 'trailer' lamp illuminates (when a trailer is attached).

The relay and 4 quality LED/COB bulbs will cost around £35 all in.

Alternatively you can insert an 8 (or 10) Ohm, 50 Watt resistor in series with the front or rear (LED) indicator and this will fool the existing relay into thinking you still have std bulbs installed.
This costs around £10
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124526347974

£160 ??... you'll be buying billet door and stainless bonnet hinges next ...
 
Tyically the LED bulbs will effect a resistive relay from working as the bulbs take very little current so the relay doesn't heat up enough to turn on and off in the ususal 'lazy fashion'
If a bulb goes the relay will speed up the process and the remaining bulbs 'flicker'.

To overcome this effect there are several sellers that offer a variable resistor relay ..
like this one ...

(other sellers are available)

This works with up to two LED's per circuit.
As we (Defenderers) have 3 things can get somewhat confusing for the circuitry.
You can cure this by using standard T5 bulbs in the side repeaters and setting the resistance so that all indicators flash and the 'trailer' lamp illuminates (when a trailer is attached).

The relay and 4 quality LED/COB bulbs will cost around £35 all in.

Alternatively you can insert an 8 (or 10) Ohm, 50 Watt resistor in series with the front or rear (LED) indicator and this will fool the existing relay into thinking you still have std bulbs installed.
This costs around £10
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124526347974

£160 ??... you'll be buying billet door and stainless bonnet hinges next ...
I appreciate everything you have given me here, but understand none of it 😁
If at some point you could find your way to travel five miles down the road and hand out some advice, there could be a bottle of malt winging its way home with you 😉😉
 
Tyically the LED bulbs will effect a resistive relay from working as the bulbs take very little current so the relay doesn't heat up enough to turn on and off in the ususal 'lazy fashion'
If a bulb goes the relay will speed up the process and the remaining bulbs 'flicker'.

To overcome this effect there are several sellers that offer a variable resistor relay ..
like this one ...

(other sellers are available)

This works with up to two LED's per circuit.
As we (Defenderers) have 3 things can get somewhat confusing for the circuitry.
You can cure this by using standard T5 bulbs in the side repeaters and setting the resistance so that all indicators flash and the 'trailer' lamp illuminates (when a trailer is attached).

The relay and 4 quality LED/COB bulbs will cost around £35 all in.

Alternatively you can insert an 8 (or 10) Ohm, 50 Watt resistor in series with the front or rear (LED) indicator and this will fool the existing relay into thinking you still have std bulbs installed.
This costs around £10
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124526347974

£160 ??... you'll be buying billet door and stainless bonnet hinges next ...
Will the relay you have posted a link to work for standard non LED indicators ? I was thinking not, as it’s lower voltage, but I am thinking of just going back to standard bulbs as going LED is a step too far for my very limited electric knowledge.
 
the problem with led units that are fitted in original lamp holder that rely on the bayonets for connection is that the current drawn is so small that when the contact point oxidise and the led then is unable to draw current through the oxidised layer on the bayonet and then stops working until the led is removed and refitted breaking the oxidised layer through the turning and refit procedure,so I would use complete led units where possible or stick to filament bulbs if your relay test ok in your tester( that if the relay tester is designed for electronic flasher like the TB64) but not on the vehicle it's the LEDS but if is does not then a new relay required
 
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the problem with led units that are fitted in original lamp holder that rely on the bayonets for connection is that the current drawn is so small that when the contact point oxidise and the led then is unable to draw current through the oxidised layer on the bayonet and then stops working until the led is removed and refitted breaking the oxidised layer through the turning and refit procedure,so I would use complete led units where possible or stick to filament bulbs if your relay test ok in your tester( that if the relay tester is designed for electronic flasher like the TB64) but not on the vehicle it's the LEDS but if is does not then a new relay required
I’ve killed my TB64 relay somehow. I tested it with my relay tester and then with 12v across the relevant posts. It’s clicking with the 12v but I’m getting a 9.99 ohms across the other posts when it should be between 50 and 200
I think I’ve wired up the rear indicators incorrectly 🤔
 
@meego that’s an old style landrover relay with trailer light set up. I found when these go some relays don’t work in there place(especially if you have glass fuses & LEDs))
Either put resistors on the indicators or go to bolt on bits & gets the dash warning light with the earth tag
 
@meego that’s an old style landrover relay with trailer light set up. I found when these go some relays don’t work in there place(especially if you have glass fuses & LEDs))
Either put resistors on the indicators or go to bolt on bits & gets the dash warning light with the earth tag
Cheers mate. I do have glass fuses. I was at @miktdish place tonight and got some great info and advice on this. I’m going to go back to basics and get the original lights working first, as at the moment I’ve made a total bodge of it. Then I’ll revisit the LED thing later once I “hopefully” get these working.
 
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