Exhaust pipe noisy

Greetings from Jämsä! Now that summer has come again, it's time to do some repairs on my RR p38 Gems -97 car. There are a few tasks on the list: Door lock, odometer reading, flap housing adjustment, cruise control operation, rear door inner handle, etc.
First of all, I would like to ask about the catalytic converters: I have listened with a stethoscope that the right-hand catalytic converter makes quite a lot of noise, which can be heard from under the car. The noise quiets down when the piping warms up. There is something loose in it. Now I would like to know if there is any information about which catalytic converter would fit my car, whose TA serial number is 95-97. I have a total of 2 lambdas. Euro2 is apparently the correct emission requirement. There is a wide range of options on the internet, both in terms of price and models...

Addition to the previous one: The catalytic converter has the identification ESR2580, which I can only find on some old ones that have been cut off.

it is possible for the material inside a catalytic converter to crack/break apart and cause a rattle. this can happen if the exhaust is very hot and you drive through water, the sudden cold shock can damage it. in theory

I haven't driven into the water in the way mentioned. I don't know about the previous ones. They have a stamp 2 96 which could be the date of manufacture?
They may have been damaged during this time. The noise is a kind of rattling, as if a metal plate is loose. With a stethoscope, it is heard most loudly from the catalytic converter. Not at all from the engine or gearbox. Heat shields do not cause that noise.
Now if only I knew which ESR number replaces the original.

mikkre said:

I haven't driven into the water in the way mentioned. I don't know about the previous ones. They have a stamp 2 96 which could be the date of manufacture?
They may have been damaged during this time. The noise is a kind of rattling, as if a metal plate is loose. With a stethoscope, it is heard most loudly from the catalytic converter. Not at all from the engine or gearbox. Heat shields do not cause that noise.
Now if only I knew which ESR number replaces the original.

Click to expand...

Could be the matrix inside is breaking down. It can affect running too. I blew MrGorsky's out the back and all over my lawn by flooring it!

Yours is twin exhaust?

@MrGorsky had sone fun with getting exhaust parts the right size. A certain amount of fettling was required, I believe. He fitted some aftermarket ones from somewhere.

I have a single-pipe exhaust pipe, from the gearbox support beam all the way back to the last silencer. (TA model series).
The front pipe is two-branched, which is combined into one with a flange connection. The question is: What would be the right replacement front pipe with catalytic converter? The original is ESR2580. The Internet offers several: ESR2907, ESR4095, etc. Does anyone know which of them will fit my car?

I got one for my 1998 4.0 from BM Catalysts. Make sure you check the length measured flange to flange in a straight line, because some suppliers they are about 20mm shorter.

https://bmcats.com/catalogue/?searc...ch-engine=4.0&search-fuel=Petrol&search-type=

Do you mean a straight line from the exhaust manifold flange to the mid muffler flange?

Yes.

Hi everyone! I have finished replacing the driver's door lock. I also replaced the plastic parts of the front doors, STC3063 and -64. Contrary to the instructions, I did not assemble the parts with a spring tensioner, but tightened the shorter lever of the spring last. It is quite easy to push it into place with a screwdriver a couple of millimeters wide between the plastic part and the handle body. The advantage of this arrangement is that the new axle pin can be easily pressed into place without the effort caused by the spring.

Replacing the lock itself was not a difficult task, of course it is cramped, especially when the lock comes off the glass channel and the door frame with a trick.

In this connection, I noticed oxidation in the door motor connector, which may be the root cause of the door lock not working involuntarily. If you have the same problems with the lock, take a closer look at this connector. When it rains, liters of water can get inside the door, which activates the oxidation to become electrically conductive. I also need to check the connectors on the rear doors in the future, as I suspect possible oxidation could cause problems here too.

My car doesn't have an RF receiver, I buried it a meter deep and forgot where it is (LOL). So I installed a retrofit door opener at the same time. I did it with the spare door motor wiring harness and left the original wiring harness in place. This way it's easy to restore the original wiring if needed. Now the doors work well, opening doesn't require force and the handle recovers better.