the_wolf
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,913
- Location
- Stonehouse, Scotland
Just the bog standard ones, I don't tend to fit polybushes
Death wobble and swivel pin preload.
- Thread starter the_wolf
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
tottot
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 8,515
- Location
- west wales coast
Rubbish parts then. I keep a spare rebushed panhard rod ready for a quick change.
Anaconda
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 5,416
- Location
- Thames Valley
I have used Britpart OEM ones 9 years ago and still going strong, unlike the poly ones which lasted 1 week.
You buy the standard cheap Britpart ones and they are only any good if you are selling it.
You buy the standard cheap Britpart ones and they are only any good if you are selling it.
the_wolf
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,913
- Location
- Stonehouse, Scotland
Update on this. I've now replaced the radius arm bushes and panhard rod bushes with genuine pattern parts and while I think it does feel a bit smoother on the road I've still got the same issue, albeit I don't think as bad. Redid the swivel pin preload and tightened them up a little, same outcome where it's not as bad but I can still feel it now and again. After some reading I discovered the the symptoms im getting, especially with it being mostly from the front left wheel, relate to the tracking, or more specifically the drag link. Apparently this should be parallel to the axle and about the same length as the panhard rod. Redid the tracking and I'm sure I can still feel a slight rattle through the steering wheel when going over bumps (not at all times but it's definitely still there). Next port of call is the steering damper as there can't be a huge amount else to change/check. I've still got this unusual metallic click at times when taking up drive (which isn't the a frame balljoint) and I've now and again got a judder when pulling away in 1st but that's a different issue I'll deal with.
the_wolf
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,913
- Location
- Stonehouse, Scotland
Is anyone able to suggest anything more on this before i drive it into a wall - literally and figuratively. I've now replaced the steering damper and the rattle through the steering, which was getting much better and although hardly noticeable was still there, is definitely back with a vengeance. It's much worse than before and the death wobble is worse. I'm at a total loss as to what to do. I've ordered a new drop arm balljoint kit (I've got one somewhere but I can't find it) but other than that I've no clue and it's ****ing me off. I now don't want to drive it as it feels unsafe, especially with my wife and son in the car, and I need the bloody thing fixed. There's also still this metallic click when I take up drive which sounds like something is loose but I can't find anything. I'm convinced that's related, it doesn't happen every time but it is frequent
Anaconda
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 5,416
- Location
- Thames Valley
You are just going to have to start at the beginning and check redo everything from the radius arm to chassis bush forward. Mark each bolt with paint to show any future movement. This includes stripping down the swivels and resetting the shims, and everything else.
Common concencus seems to be that the drop arm repair kits are a bit crap, I bought a new one which was around £90.
Common concencus seems to be that the drop arm repair kits are a bit crap, I bought a new one which was around £90.
the_wolf
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,913
- Location
- Stonehouse, Scotland
Im annoyed because I've got a genuine LR one acquired from the army many years ago and I've no idea where it's gone. The one I bought was 8 quid so hardly going to be outstanding quality but it's the last thing I can possibly change. Do you think the angle of the steering column would make any difference?
Anaconda
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 5,416
- Location
- Thames Valley
Sorry, I don't know what you mean with regards to the angle of the steering column. Are they not all the same and in a fixed position?
the_wolf
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,913
- Location
- Stonehouse, Scotland
The angle of the bulkhead will change the angle of the steering column. The UJs can obviously compensate but I would imagine only so much as they still need to be able to take into account the movement of the chassis
Anaconda
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 5,416
- Location
- Thames Valley
That worry had never crossed my mind, don't even know if that's an issue. I have never read anything about it elsewhere.
the_wolf
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,913
- Location
- Stonehouse, Scotland
I tried to upload a video but can't. I got my missus to rock the steering back and forth and everything is solid except for the panhard rod. The amount of movement in the bushes, especially the one at the steering box end, is ridiculous. I took a video but it won't let me upload it. Those are brand new bushes and brand new bolts so I don't understand why it's so bad
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,130
- Location
- Wiltshire
Get a big bar & tighten them up…
Has the hole ovaled ?
As for video. Upload to YouTube & attach that way
the_wolf
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,913
- Location
- Stonehouse, Scotland
They're torqued to spec, they shouldn't be moving at all. I don't recall the holes being ovalled but I'll remove it and check
the_wolf
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,913
- Location
- Stonehouse, Scotland
On looking back at that video and another I just took it's moving within the bush itself. Not the mounting points on the tie bar or axle
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,130
- Location
- Wiltshire
That’s a lot of play.
Really tighten them bolts first. You can’t over tighten them as the metal center won’t allow this.
If the above fails….
Take off panard rod off and check mounting holes. Check bolts are the correct size for the bushes.
If in doubt just get some poly bush ones as it makes life easier to change.
the_wolf
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,913
- Location
- Stonehouse, Scotland
The bolts are correct panhard rod bolts but even tightening it up to 110nm made no difference. It was already ft as they were only supposed to be 88nm. I took the rod off and there's a tiny bit of slack when the bolt goes through the bottom bush whereas the top one has the bolt nice and snug. What I did find though is that the rubber has become detached from the bushes with the top bush being worse. These are supposed to be decent quality but either I've had two lots of crap bushes or something else is going on to cause them to fail so quickly. Like I said it was all so much better until I replaced the steering damper then it suddenly got much worse, which seems odd. I might just buy polybushes for ease of fitting
Anaconda
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 5,416
- Location
- Thames Valley
That's a problem for sure.
Do them up as tight as possible and see what happens.
What bushes did you fit, random aftermarket, oem or genuine?
Do them up as tight as possible and see what happens.
What bushes did you fit, random aftermarket, oem or genuine?
the_wolf
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,913
- Location
- Stonehouse, Scotland
They were aftermarket. After the first ones failed I went back to the seller and he sent me what to took to be some decent aftermarket ones. Clearly not. I either go for oem metalastic bushes or poly
Anaconda
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 5,416
- Location
- Thames Valley
If you fit polybushes then buy good ones, cheaper ones are crap.
Not all bolts are the same, some are metric some are not.
Anaconda
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 5,416
- Location
- Thames Valley
I have used Britpart oem with no problem.
Since you have now learned a valuable lesson you would do well to replace your other aftermarket with oem. You can buy a kit for not a great deal of money.
