P38A Transfer Box Remove/Overhaul

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tank93

Active Member
Posts
136
Hi All,

Next on my list of things to do on the P38 is to overhaul the t/box and replace the viscous and chain. Tyres are starting to scrub when turning so the viscous is on the way out so if replacing that might as well overhaul the complete box.

Can anybody suggest what other parts should be replaced, I guess there are bearings/seals that should be replaced if the t/case is removed? Any parts/part numbers required would be great and I will order them up.

Thanks
 
I priced it up and a reconditioned one from Ashcrofts was only about a hundred or so quid more. Saved me the hassle and some come-back should it fail.
 
Hi All,

Next on my list of things to do on the P38 is to overhaul the t/box and replace the viscous and chain. Tyres are starting to scrub when turning so the viscous is on the way out so if replacing that might as well overhaul the complete box.

Can anybody suggest what other parts should be replaced, I guess there are bearings/seals that should be replaced if the t/case is removed? Any parts/part numbers required would be great and I will order them up.

Thanks
Unless you have done a very high mileage or tow or do a lot of off roading, I doubt you need to overhaul the TB. The VCU is easy to replace without doing anything other than drop the front prop.
 
I just bought a known good tb instead of replacing the train for mine. Came on a pallet, straight in to the boot of the RR. Was swapped out next day at a mates garage.
 
Unless you have done a very high mileage or tow or do a lot of off roading, I doubt you need to overhaul the TB. The VCU is easy to replace without doing anything other than drop the front prop.

Think Land Rover say to replace the Morse chain at 100k. Mine was certainly slack at 150k miles.
 
Thanks for the all the comments.

1) I have spoke to Ashcroft transmissions yesterday as somebody mentioned them, they can do me an exchange t/box total price just over £1,200, think you get £250 of that back upon return of the old t/case.

2) Thanks Dataek for your input, if the viscous can be replaced without having to remove the complete t/box, then it makes sense to do this first and then reassess. Can the job be completed just removing the prop or does the cross member also have to be replaced?
 
Thanks for the all the comments.

1) I have spoke to Ashcroft transmissions yesterday as somebody mentioned them, they can do me an exchange t/box total price just over £1,200, think you get £250 of that back upon return of the old t/case.

2) Thanks Dataek for your input, if the viscous can be replaced without having to remove the complete t/box, then it makes sense to do this first and then reassess. Can the job be completed just removing the prop or does the cross member also have to be replaced?

Best read RAVE but hopefully someone who has done it will pipe up. I think it needs pressing into place.
 
Thanks for the all the comments.

1) I have spoke to Ashcroft transmissions yesterday as somebody mentioned them, they can do me an exchange t/box total price just over £1,200, think you get £250 of that back upon return of the old t/case.

2) Thanks Dataek for your input, if the viscous can be replaced without having to remove the complete t/box, then it makes sense to do this first and then reassess. Can the job be completed just removing the prop or does the cross member also have to be replaced?
Just drop the prop as far as I can remember.
 
Worth a read: http://p38.hts.com.au/pdf/viscous_coupling_replacement.pdf
To help line the housing up when refitting (Section 8 in the link) it would be worth putting couple of studs into the transfer box so you can put the VC housing onto them & slide the mating faces together. Fit a couple of bolts then remove the studs & fit the rest of the bolts.

Yes, it was the press part that pushed me over the edge into a complete refurbed box.
 
Is there a torque figure applied to the hub nut which is used to determine if the viscous is seized? Seems subjective otherwise just to say it should turn with with some force. One persons opinion of a high amount of force could be totally different to the next person.
 
Is there a torque figure applied to the hub nut which is used to determine if the viscous is seized? Seems subjective otherwise just to say it should turn with with some force. One persons opinion of a high amount of force could be totally different to the next person.
With box in neutral hand brake applied, lift one front wheel. Wheel should turn slowly applying 75 Nm or 55 Lb ft to the hub nut.
 
I did the outer bearing on the VC earlier this year, I dropped the cross member for much easier access. Just top up or replace the oil when your done. :cool:
 
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