Revs drop on inclines

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
I plan to take the top of the carb off today and check the float level as a first step and I'll check to see if any crap has got past the fuel filter whilst I'm at it. As far as I know, the engine and gearbox mounts are as old as the landy (40 years) so they are worth checking too, I'm not sure of the best way yet though. I might mark the throttle rod position on the level then take it to a steep hill where I can park and where the revs drop and check the throttle marks to see if they have moved.

Col
 
I plan to take the top of the carb off today and check the float level as a first step and I'll check to see if any crap has got past the fuel filter whilst I'm at it. As far as I know, the engine and gearbox mounts are as old as the landy (40 years) so they are worth checking too, I'm not sure of the best way yet though. I might mark the throttle rod position on the level then take it to a steep hill where I can park and where the revs drop and check the throttle marks to see if they have moved.

Col

It's a good idea to get a gasket set before pulling it apart though it's possible to make one up if you have gasket paper and a small ball pein hammer.

The old one will likely break up and sealant is not an option.
 
My S3 had very similar issues, absolutely fine at a standstill, just about OK when moving, but any load, like a hill or towing, it would die.

I'd check the fuel pickup pipes in the tanks. On my S3 the cone filter/mesh was absolutely full of crud and when I tried to clean it, the thing collapsed! Just removing the filter from the pickup cured all silliness like the above. I substituted it with an inline clear view round fuel filter, which simply allowed fuel to flow properly and keep the crud at bay.
 
My S3 had very similar issues, absolutely fine at a standstill, just about OK when moving, but any load, like a hill or towing, it would die.

I'd check the fuel pickup pipes in the tanks. On my S3 the cone filter/mesh was absolutely full of crud and when I tried to clean it, the thing collapsed! Just removing the filter from the pickup cured all silliness like the above. I substituted it with an inline clear view round fuel filter, which simply allowed fuel to flow properly and keep the crud at bay.
Yes good tip. I was thinking of giving the lines a blow through with my compressor but maybe I should check the pick up filter first.

Col
 
Mine goes up hills fine, it's only when I have to stop on a hill that the revs drop and it ticks over ok on the flat so up until now, I haven't really worried too much about the fuel lines. I've noticed it more since I fitted the electronic ignition module, the tick over was erratic with the old points so it was set quite high to prevent stalling at traffic lights etc.

Col
 
I plan to take the top of the carb off today and check the float level as a first step and I'll check to see if any crap has got past the fuel filter whilst I'm at it. As far as I know, the engine and gearbox mounts are as old as the landy (40 years) so they are worth checking too, I'm not sure of the best way yet though. I might mark the throttle rod position on the level then take it to a steep hill where I can park and where the revs drop and check the throttle marks to see if they have moved.

Col
Just do a Mungo => Lean into the engine bay and see how far you can wiggle the engine. If you have a helper they might be able to see cracks / excessive movement in the engine mounts or the throttle linkage (you might be able to see that yourself as well). When I removed my obviously original engine mounts they didn't look too bad to me - new ones will now be fitted of course - but they seem pretty simple resilient (pun intended) things to me...
 
I have had a look in the tank and it is as clean as a whistle, I was surprised how clean it is and the filter in the tank pick up is also ok. Took the top off the carb and checked for sediment but there isn't any and the float level is good. Now that this issue is at the forefront of my rapidly deteriating mind I have linked it to another issue which I have been ignoring but some of the posts above have made me think. Often, when I change gear, There is a clunk when I depress the clutch and another clunk when I let it out again. Initially I suspected this was something amiss with the clutch actuating mechanism but now I'm thinking maybe the gearbox/engine is shifting a bit as the drive is disconnected and reconnected. For the sake of it, I may as well as change all of the mountings. Does anyone know if there is a difference between the mounts for diesels and petrols. All the ones I have seen so far say they are for diesels. Thanks for all responses thus far.

Col
 
Back
Top