Recent content by Zaphodbb

Hi Datatek, Chip inside the remote is a Motorola MC705K1CDW other markings are: XLAA9925 700030 17B Looks like this seller has them on eBay (USA) 10 for under £12 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252187093288

I had assumed that programming was achieved via the round PCB pads you can see when the battery holder is removed - these are often used as test points on larger PCB's for automated testing. You can see them in the pictures Brian posted earlier in the thread. If I can work out how to attach a...

Thank you again Datatek for the tip on how to separate the key fob - have done this and swapped over the SMD chip from the old to one of the new eBay / k.l.c.k fobs PCB: I now have a rock solid lock/unlock from the remote and it's in a new case - so happy now as this was really playing on my...

Oh - be careful: there are at least two auctions - one for the Canadian / USA version which works on a different frequency.

Edit - they gone up a bit now £17.35 inc postage https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295808964605

Thank you both for the confirmation re second hand key fobs: I had read this. However, maybe I didn't make myself clear: these key fobs are NOS - new-old-stock - i.e. brand new, never been used ones. I've looked very closely at them and they are not knock-offs - inside the battery compartment...

It's been a while - life getting in the way again: have fixed the rear wiper (bad motor) and the headlamp & rear screen wash (bad pumps) with the parts I salvaged from the now scrapped Blue 4.0 HSE. I've also replaced the engine to heater hoses & the hoses that feed the LPG reduced/evaporator...

Well, there was corrosion on some of the pins on the footwell connectors: cleaned them up and applied contact cleaner, but that hasn't solved it. Also tried swapping over the door station - again no change. New water shedder now fitted to the drivers door. Also, my heat exchanger swap has a...

I had previously swapped it over from the known good working 4.0l HSE - however, given that water had been getting in from the air vent / cabin filter, I'll now look closely at the cabling and connectors in the footwell, they could be corroded. Job for Saturday.

Progress at last - ribbon cable swapped on the logic board and BeCM re-assembled with the spare power board. eBay source connector spliced in place of the melted large grey one - soldered and insulated with glue lined heat shrink + loom taped. Battery connected back up - lots of fiddling with...

Thank you all that have replied - cover on order (good idea PW) as this is going to take a while. Logic board cleaned-up - tried to unsolder the ribbon connector but too risky as the pins are a very tight fit in the through-holes, so have pulled apart the top clamp and peeled off the damaged...

OK - update: taken the BeCM cover off, and the top PCB is badly fried adjacent to the long grey connector, the power tracks are burnt off of the board and the glass fibre is burnt so badly it's delaminating + the long grey socket above is heat welded to the plug so I can't unplug it :-( I can't...

Hi All, Well, something isn't right, it isn't totally knackered, but the rear doors no longer unlock with the key (clicking noises), and the engine is showing as disabled in the binnacle display and no amount of fob button pressing whilst in the ignition will clear it. I don't seem to be able to...

Sorry - no progress as life has got in the way (not to mention the cold / snow - I'm working outside). I have also been tackleing the heater 'O' rings in parallel to the lock issues, and found the matrix to also be faulty (Audi matrix now fitted with 20cm(ish) long, 19mm ISD silicone hoses &...

Thank you to all that have replied - no luck so far, but I will try the outstation tomorrow as Datatek suggests as I will be replacing the water shedder (completely ripped to pieces by some idiot, not just cut). I'm now pretty sure the fob itself is somehow faulty.