xDParis64's latest activity

Hey! Can't say I had the same issue, mine would not go down on my FL1, so I guess much better, however in the summer not fun, in short I discovered the plastic part that had the cable for the motor to pull had water and corroded the plastic over...

I took the clock spring from it, super easy to change, wrench and screwdriver will set you up, may need to re-use your clock spring though.

Hey, you'll have to let me know, however I can clean one one, it has volume control if you are at all interested, in the beige colour. Does that work?

You can always get a spray bottle with water, spray down all the turbo lines where they are clamped, start the car and check for bubbles ;)

yeah I thought so but mine says 8V on the engine but also says TD4 on the back (Door) You know what, I will take it out the diesel and let you all know how it goes :)

Hey so I have a Petrol 1.8 and a Diesel 2.0 TD4 (Parts car) I may need to replace the Gearbox (another thread in question) but I am of the understanding that the gearbox from the TD4 does not fit the 1.8 Petrol. However... This suggests that...

Though the more I look around and at the below picture: The more I think it is stripped as the splines where the IRD would go (The smaller set of splines) it is smooth but with little bit of spline at the end. this picture illustrates this Red...

Here are some more pictures of the removed IRD and CV While a little blurry the splines inside the gearbox are all okay: Not sure if it is how it is meant to look but the middle set of splines only have spline at the bottom of that part but...

Yeah I did not think I could swap the gearboxes :( Either way, the CV seemed fine, I checked both sides to make sure, all splines are good none are sheared I am not sure where the issue lays, when I get home from work I will upload some images...

So... Wasn't this fun. I spent this weekend, getting dripped on by oil, coolant and dirt, but I guess I do this because I enjoy it, however I took the IRD out, took the diff cover off it and it was fine???? All the gears are good, it actually...

Similar "on the ground" applies to wheelnuts (until I got my DeWalt) !! I've always laughed at people that jack the car first & then try to loosen them with the usual car wheel wrench. This is the one I have . . . . bit of an animal, but...

Just a decent flat head screwdriver would suffice. The tab isn't that strong.

Chisel and a hammer ought to get that tab out the way right?

Make sure you open the locking tab first on the nut !!!

That actually makes a lot of sense, will ensure I crack it with the car down and then do the rest of it off the floor Gonna get a 2ft Breaker bar and attached my jack stand pole to it for about 4-5 ft of breaker bar, should be plenty to get this...

Yeah I took a look and it is 400nm but you make a really good point, if the driveshaft is not connected then how the feck am I gonna apply 400nm or more to the nut without it spinning? The engine doesn't even provide 400nm of torque, wish me luck...

Ouch. I just went out while we were discussing this to give this IRD a couple tests and it is bad news, or maybe good? I don't know, I think more disassembly is needed to determine full damage. I read this forum >...

Thank you, now you mention it, there is a small oil leak on what I think is the front diff or the gearbox, honestly I go under this car and have no idea what I am looking at 😅 (It is the first box on the right when under the car, it looks like...

Erm, you could always take the lift out so that the CVs run at the angles they are supposed to. On the back, I suppose you could lower the diff by 60mm.... and hope the UJs on the prop shaft don't give up or the diff gets collected by a rock...

Wow that looks high at the back 😁

Hey all! I have been working on my land rover today. For context I have a Freelander 1 1.8 petrol along with a 2.0 TD4 that has rust out of the wazoo so it is a donor parts car (Unable to pass MOT or reasonably be repaired). However I think I...

Ah yeah, I did measure it all out, needed to cut out a bit at the bottom to make room for the 50mm, didn't have any issues being at full lock though, both track rods reached okay without any massive amount of strain, really all I need at the...

Once the shocks had some time to return to normal as they had been out of the car, it sits a little lower, I can still fit my head in between the wheel and wheel arch though, looking to get some bigger wheels once I have some spacers to clear the...

Appreciate the help! I have reached out to Muddy mods and will look at getting my VCU tested by bell engineering to ensure it is good.

Hey all! I have my Forever Land Rover and just want to let you all know what I have done and had a few question along the way. I will make sure to bold any questions so y'all can help without having to read me yap on 😅 1. So this Saturday I...

If you are anywhere near and are able to get the door trim off I can sure help getting it unlocked for you, I am near Southampton

Thank you! really helpful information, will look at getting this all sorted, will test the prop, replace bearings, I read that the clunk on gear change is the rear centre diff mount so I will look to replacing that too. I will check out that...

My work around was I snapped the door off the bottom of the screws after about 6 hours of trying to unscrew them, I then used what was left of the screws to screw it back on (They were ripped and a little bent)

hey, the return spring on the actuator had corroded and no longer pulled the actuator so when closed the door would not open as the ECU still thought it was open (The spring had not returned) I installed a spring to the actuator bar to some...

Good Morning, afternoon, whatever. I need help. I bought a cheap Freelander 1 1.8 Petrol K series. I understand NO ONE likes the 1.8 petrol, however there are already a few things I have done. I uprated the head gasket as I read that these...