wileycat's latest activity

And one more thought ... Several of you chimed in to say you would work really hard on some kind of bodge before pulling the engine and swapping the crank. This was helpful advice because I was actually starting down the road of pulling the...

So firstly i dont know the engine, But. Can I clear up somethings first. You dont have a tapered crank? You have a sloppy fit. I.E the pully just goes on with no resistance? Ok so my thoughts. The straight shaft indicates to me that it has to...

Might be helpful to others to know how this problem started so I will pass along my thoughts on this -> I don't think the bolt was loose initially. I replaced the cam belt 2 years ago and when I went to reinstall the damper I think I damaged...

Success :). I made a new steel shim after filing the sharp edges off the Woodruff key slot in the damper. I then took my time and managed to introduce it the whole way without buckling or tearing. It is really tight. I have not assembled the...

You are correct that it is a non-tapered shaft. No taper at all. It is much more than just a loose sliding fit between the damaged crankshaft and the damper.. You can grab the damper and wobble it while it is on the shaft in the installed...

I appreciate the comments - but I would like to know what sort of wobble you wound up with when filling a .014 (.36 mm) gap with filler? I think the prior experiences have been with a chewed crank but one that did not have such a massive and...

Further to last - The vehicle does not have to be roadworthy at the time of import. My old South African Truck (a 1974 Series III LWB) had to be carried to the top of my driveway - which fortunately has a nice slope. Gravity moved it to my...

Speaking from the west side of the Atlantic ... I have imported from South Africa to the USA but never from the UK. I can only speak to the law on our side, which varies greatly from state to state. As far as our federal government goes it must...

Fifth photo - The Crankshaft Cozy was not going to survive under this plan, no matter what. New plan -> Adapting some suggestions here into a combination. I will make a new Crankshaft Cozy out of .005 steel. I will use aerospace epoxy to bond...

Fourth photo - It starts to look promising. But then - after advancing about 10mm along the brass shim (aka Crankshaft Cozy) the shim buckles. I put on the makeshift puller to remove the damper.

Third photo - The damper in place with the 90mm bolt in place. Damper rotation restricting tool bolted to front of damper (this is a 1/4 inch by 3 inch piece of bar stock with holes for the damper bolt pattern). Large ratchet with 30mm socket...

Second photo - Aviation lock wire used to secure the Crankshaft Cozy. The idea here is to clamp it near where you introduce the damper, then keep loosening it and move it back as the damper is pulled into place. Idea is to prevent buckling.

Here is the latest work with some photos. First photo is the "kit" I created. There is the .007 brass shim rolled form to be a good fit around the crank. My wife has named this the "Crankshaft Cozy." Then there is the long bolt I ordered. I...

For guys using some type of filler: (1) How did you center the damper? (2) Were you able top get the thing back off next time you needed to change the timing belt?

Progress report - I made a first test shim to try with the timing cover still off just to see how hard it would be to introduce the damper (I realize the key is out - will replace the key). This is .007 brass shim stock. I formed it to a...

Some work progress to report. After cleaning up the crankshaft extension (with the Woodruff key out) it really did not look too bad. I then set out to carefully measure it. From the cam belt cog all the way out to the end of the shaft it...

Uh oh - If it ain't the damper holding the cam belt cog in place then I don't know what else is. On the other hand - if you look at the first picture I posted the way the Woodruff key sheared kinda suggests a gap was there between the belt cog...

Yours is nowhere near as bad as the one I described in my post above, yours is the later type as in pic above [ early Disco 200 had a very steep taper on the end of the crank] Looks well on the way to a fix. I would use a new crank bolt. Good luck.

And one more... This shows the first replacement damper I tried. If you look at the rear surface you will see a witness mark where that surface was bearing against the cog upon tightening. On this damper I thought the outer diameter was a bit...

Here is same shaft after it was cleared up and a replacement damper was installed. After noticing the wobble I used a puller to remove the new damper. This shot is after I removed the damper. There is still grease on the shaft from the...

Thought some pics might help - Here is a shot of the start of the problem. Woodruff key sheared off and allowed the damper to spin and chew on the crank

No worries sir - all help is appreciated. The water pump does have to come off to remove the timing case front cover, but as you say the hoses can be clamped enough to fill the water jacket and run for a short while.

The Woodruff key itself does not seem to be causing a problem. Do you mean weld material to the tapered inner bore of the damper? That could work. The trick there is that the damper has the inner part and the outer part with some kind of...

Removing metal from the rear of the damper is a good idea. I have an old 3 axis mill that will do that nicely. I could then make a shim plate to move the pulley forward just a bit.

That looks consistent with what I can see with the timing belt cog still in place. I have a new idea - I can pull off everything down to the timing cog and use a long belt of sand paper to encircle the rough part of the crankshaft extension and...

It is worth trying most anything. I hate to pull an otherwise good engine and tear it down for this problem. I found I can get coiled brass shim stock. I am thinking of running the engine and trying the grind approach, but need some info. (1)...

I ran that setup for awhile and liked it. Eventually swapped to 200 Tdi for highway driving just as you noted. I suggest making sure your valve lash is spot on. It needs all the help it can get on the highway. I noticed when I adjusted mine...

One of your American cousins has messed up and needs your help (No - we didn't invade any country. This is just an engine problem). I am running an early 1990s 200Tdi in an ex-MOD 110. I've run and loved this truck for 30+ years. Driving...