Recent content by Wildefalcon

sounds okay.

The new chassis option is good, but an old chassis that's been blasted, repaired and galved is fine.

Get the chassis shot blasted. Any structural rust will be exposed. The rest doesn't matter, and the pre dip pickling will take care of it.

Totally. Current house was chosen exactly for that. Too old to be minding tools on the side of the road.

This is, for me, at any rate, the peculiar joy of a series. No matter how bad it is, no matter what the previous ten owners did, it can be fixed by me. And, if I do it right, the repair will last for longer than the life of most modern cars.

Time for a Toyota Yaris

Best? Electro rust removal. Cheapest? Knotted brush on an angle grinder.

Right! Good progress. Get those diagrams, well make life easier. Remove all the fuses again. Put one and only oneback. And see what happens. See what works. Now you know what that fuse does so take a note. Keep going until you get the spark again. That's a broken circuit.

Chassis. Axles. Brake lines. Lower steering. Engine. Gearbox Radiator Bulkhead. Body. Upper steering. Pedals Loom Heater Wings.

Are there engine rebuild businesses there? Perhaps for farm vehicles or commercial vehicles? Time to invest in the future.

Wow! Not seen those before. I'll take a look at a 2286 I've in the yard tomorrow, see if I can find them on it.

You've a pump driven by the belt? I don't know much about those pumps, could that be the "exhaust" for the air expelled from the tank?

Hum! Interesting, similar to the ACR headers.

Any photos?

That's good work @uytter . Well done. This is all from your photos so I'm not 100% on any of this advice but..... The valve looks like an on-off switch. An electrical isolation valve, if you wish. Keep the positive terminal of the battery set isolated, don't attach the positive cable for...