Wildefalcon's latest activity

sounds okay.

Hi Uytter, I am currently on holiday (with the Landy) and the digital diagrams are on my laptop at home. I can send them on Tuesday earliest. Attached is a copy of the paper ones I always carry in the car. I also had electrical issues in the...

The new chassis option is good, but an old chassis that's been blasted, repaired and galved is fine.

Get the chassis shot blasted. Any structural rust will be exposed. The rest doesn't matter, and the pre dip pickling will take care of it.

Totally. Current house was chosen exactly for that. Too old to be minding tools on the side of the road.

This is, for me, at any rate, the peculiar joy of a series. No matter how bad it is, no matter what the previous ten owners did, it can be fixed by me. And, if I do it right, the repair will last for longer than the life of most modern cars.

Thanks for that. Even as a non starting pain in the backside she suddenly looks like Sigourney Weaver towards the end of Alien II. Battery taken back without a whimper and replacement checked in the shop at 12.8. We will see what tomorrow brings.

Time for a Toyota Yaris

Best? Electro rust removal. Cheapest? Knotted brush on an angle grinder.

Right! Good progress. Get those diagrams, well make life easier. Remove all the fuses again. Put one and only oneback. And see what happens. See what works. Now you know what that fuse does so take a note. Keep going until you get the spark...

And don't tighten body panels, bulkhead and side frames until everything is lined up and packed/shimmed. Don't ask me why I know 😭

Chassis. Axles. Brake lines. Lower steering. Engine. Gearbox Radiator Bulkhead. Body. Upper steering. Pedals Loom Heater Wings.

Are there engine rebuild businesses there? Perhaps for farm vehicles or commercial vehicles? Time to invest in the future.

The two litre diesel had them holes and they are tell tale holes for the liner seals, not sure if the 2.25 are the same?

Wow! Not seen those before. I'll take a look at a 2286 I've in the yard tomorrow, see if I can find them on it.

im gonna say its probably a copy of the acr headers, i didnt pay much in total it was cheaper then a new exhaust manifold.

Did a little search and this popped up. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/diesel-vacuum-pump-question.350782/ So it could be correct being open. How much "suck" do you get on the line going to the servo, and does the other line "blow"? J

You've a pump driven by the belt? I don't know much about those pumps, could that be the "exhaust" for the air expelled from the tank?

Hum! Interesting, similar to the ACR headers.

Any photos?

That's good work @uytter . Well done. This is all from your photos so I'm not 100% on any of this advice but..... The valve looks like an on-off switch. An electrical isolation valve, if you wish. Keep the positive terminal of the battery set...

I share your struggle. Mine looks similar, but sufficiently different so that the standard rattle cans don't match. I'm sending a sample to paint man, asking for a match

Not my one, but was handy to use to find it!

Thanks, after quite a lot of searching finally found it! under layers of protection and dirt!

Good, batteries wired correctly. Now, your machine doesn't have standard Landrover wiring, it has lots of continental fuses, and this I can only assume lots of split out circuits on top of the Landrover loom. However there is most likely to be...

PEARLS OF WISD Clingfilm worked!

That's a really smart idea. Well done. Thank you, also, for letting us know.

Simple things first. Disconnect the batteries, leaving only the cable between them. What voltage do you get across the two batteries?

I am facing this job. What modifications did you make?

Get a multi meter. Then you can start looking for the problems. First. You do have 2 batteries, right?