UnitLandy's latest activity

It's been rebuilt. I put three grooves into to aid alignment. After rebuild.

I wouldn't touch the top of that pump unless it has been off. Just the act if retightening can affect the idle. It is very sensitive. You'll need a volunteer in the car ready to kill the engine if you tap it too far and it starts revving its nuts...

Cheers, I remembered that!

However you adjust the pump angle, the final movement of adjustment must be toward the engine.

yes, sorry. 900rpm not 90. My brother has the nanocom. I'll see if I can get a reading when he comes round.

No good guessing, what modulation figure do you have with the engine hot? I assume that you mean 900 rpm not 90?

Right, got her running but she's very lumpy & idling at around 90rpm. So does that mean I need to slightly loosen the second row of bolts on the FIP and knock it forwards a touch. Guess the pump needs to be rotated anticlockwise a touch too. I'm...

Right it's back in. It felt okay - no resistance. Here's a before picture of the woodruff key before I removed it: And here's after: Does that look okay to you? Just checking... Nearly forgot to put the brass nut on at 50NM before pulling...

It could be a setting up port for the factory 🤔

I wouldn't have thought so the system self bleeds with the in tank pump running.

Put nail varnish on em...😜

Could the bolt be a bleed nut?

Bet the engineers didn't know either. Just thought it looks nice. Rustic...

No idea for the other bits kiddo🤔

Right. I just went ahead & did it; 90NM for the threaded inspection bung, 25NM for the inspection bolt & 45NM for the delivery value holders. All went well. FYI: I didn't torque it up like this. I had the steel end nipped up in the vice not the...

Cheers! I think these are the correct RAVE torque settings for the FIP but I can't see the correct torque for the larger threaded bung.

I'd have to check RAVE next time I have the laptop running but it is less than you think. 90 nm sounds way too much. 25 nm sounds more likely. The high pressure pipes just need nipping up so they don't leak. Finger tips tight using a 17 mm...

How do! Three weeks later & not much done. Been waiting on a workbench to attach a vice properly which took the best part of two weeks while I also accidentally ordered just one metal advance gasket which meant waiting another week. I've got...

Cheers, Datatek. In that case I'll leave it.

Looks OK to me. Maybe it's been off before and it was a struggle to get the key back in the slot.

Right it's out... The woodruff key looks a little chewed on one corner as does the sprocket keyway. Will it be okay or need replacing? The car was running sweet as a nut besides the leak. Maby it's best just left as is...

Easy enough to lift & jiggle the sprocket into position to mate with the pump shaft.

The RAVE manual doesn't mention using an adapter sleeve.

I've got the specialty tool for removing the pump. But! Before I commit, how does the tool hold the sprocket central after the pumps tapered shaft is removed? There seems to be space around the tool within the tensioner sleeve, so that can be...

As far as chain stretch goes, my method is no different to the DTI method, it just allows a more accurate setting.

Theoretically but the last movement when timing has to be towards the engine and it is very fiddly so I wouldn't rely on it. Mine's timed up as per RAVE. My only concern with Datatek's method is the possibility of masking chain stretch too much...

PM me with an email address and I will send you the info.

Oh! Might I enquire what that is? 😃

My steel rule method of final timing the FIP is easier and more accurate than the DTI method in RAVE.

If you haven’t had the chains off or changed anything should be okay if it was good before. I’m fairly sure the woodruff key should be roughly vertical when locked at cyl1 tdc but not 110%, others memories may be fresher, but as you say it’s all...