tottot's latest activity

I shall brake and clutch fluid the engine down today , after a drive tomorrow I shall add photos to this thread .

The lift pump runs off a cam on the cam shaft, nothing to to with belts or idler pully.

I have done the same you Simon on my Ford Focus 1800tdci, bulb makes bleeding after filter change a doddle as before it was a nightmare job. John.

The quality of everything is getting worse. That's not a cynical opinion, it's a fact documented by consumer watchdogs, vloggers, bloggers, and the media. So it wouldn't surprise me if the quality of modern diesel pumps is now crap. So no diesel...

No.

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/200tdiconversion.htm#:~:text=Whilst%20we%20are%20at%20this,Series%20IIA/III%20friction%20plate. Sorry thought both parts had been used and working, this link should help

Think you will have to stay with the 9.5 due to flywheel location pins. With old landy's one often just does not know what others have done in the past. 2a diesel models do have 9.5 unit.

I have used Britpart OEM ones 9 years ago and still going strong, unlike the poly ones which lasted 1 week. You buy the standard cheap Britpart ones and they are only any good if you are selling it.

Two each their own, but I still like old method of paper gasket smeared with grease. Next time something gets opened up someone will not be struggling to clean off silicone like I recently did with 230 I sorted last year. If you do use silicone...

Rubbish parts then. I keep a spare rebushed panhard rod ready for a quick change.

Were the duff bush's poly type or metalastic type. Six month's is a short time for any type. There sure are some poor quality parts about these days.

When up to working temp the thermostat opens to allow coolant to rad. Most will have a thermostat that opens at 88 degrees so your reading there and on the top hose should be somewhere near that. Top of rad close and the lower down the rad face...

You can check your engine temp with a hand held IR temp reader, aim at thermostat housing, top hose and radiator just after you have stopped.

Look on fleabay. Are yours the same size as the LR standard bracket?

Alright Guys, If you read my introduce me post, this is the burnt out D2… All my fault. I had a lapse in what I normally would do, I left a dirty greasy rag on the rear drivers axle and it caught fire from a bit of glue that was on fire from...

No chance, mine was used on the Ark, plenty to choose from on the ebay just pick one with a tapered nose.

I have a plier type rivet tool that has a smaller head than my lazy tongs.

An easy way to gain access is to release bonnet stay and lean bonnet back against screen, support with a long stick for safety. As I remember the 19j filter is the old type that does not unscrew. A bolt on the top/middle part of housing goes...

Well done you have narrowed down the fault on your 25+ year old engine to either the water pump or the PAS pump. If I were you I would treat the engine to an OEM quality replacement of both items which would do you for another 15 to 20+ years...

No

Problem found!! Removed the battery light cable from the alternator stud and connected it to the alternator pin, and everything works fine! It would seem there is an issue with the alternator stud terminal - spoken to the supplier and waiting to...

You are asking in the Series land rover section, Suggest you move to Range Rover Threads.

Just to advise you all i stock loads of unf and unc stainless screws on my website www. britstainless.co.uk or my ebay store of the same name, if you need any help just ask, thanks brian

Clicks can come from partially seize UJ, have had one totally seize and boy did that result in a vibration that nearly shook steering wheel out of my hands. The joint in question was well hot but when cooled I was able to drive home. Not saying...

Pretty simple check, with volt meter connected at alternator output when engine running you should have 13 to 14v showing. However as yours is a fitted for radio military model than it would have had a 24v system. Has it been converted...

Clonks while moving off/slowing down are usually related to axle play both front and rear in places like the various rods and links and bush's that attach them to chassis. A classic is the A frame joint on top of the rear diff but this would not...

I don't have the special tool either and have just carefully tapped around the seal to seat it' I do second @miktdish above re the seal, those brown ones fit easy enough but do not last in this situation and many have started to leak in a few...

Well at least others may benefit from your info.

Thanks yes. Agree, ill have a go tomorrow afternoon and see.if i can drive a tappered drift through to raise the paul, if i can do that ill make a tubular tapered tool with a split in to feed through in front if the cable shaft to get it back...

Be careful not to contaminate running surface if you add sealer [ original seal had a sealer already on the outside] Locating seal in housing can be done by careful tapping around the seal if seal fitting tool not available. One chap on here...