tottot's latest activity

Aren’t the two heavier brown cables connected at alternator and on same terminal on solenoid.

Some of their kit is excellent. The CVs that the coil sprung lot use are the best in the market. There's a few other examples out there. Most of their stuff is meh. And there's far too much crap as well. Infuriating, to be honest as a tiny bit...

Britpart. Covering the full spectrum of quality parts. From rubbish to excellent.

Intermittent is how mine was for a while so I had the under bonnet lash up and then the jumper until I sorted it. Some other relay behind the main group would click when testing mine [1990 19j] No glow plug relay on pre Defender model diesels...

Re my post above, when trying to sort my starting issue I made up a little jumper cable and plugged one end into the brown live feed [ at relay position] and touched the other end on the white/red to solenoid. Started every time. Connected small...

Send it back.

Did you 'test' it with a prybar ? for excess movement etc ?

OK, thanks guys. Good to hear that the 12v thin wire is doing its job. The engine is earthed directly to the battery neg terminal which is earthed to the side of the radiator casing. None of this has changed since the battery was getting a...

I think Marshland were the JLR OEM. So there is that. Both are good enough. Which is cheaper and available soonest?

And the boost fail could be from something as simple as a pipe that has split or come off. Whooshing noise points to this, had it happen on a car once and power was gone.

A TD5 with an electrical issue ... well that's a 'Tom Jones' for sure ....

It's on the bottom of the pump in the plastic housing. If you have oil in the ecu then change the injector wire loom.

Well, nice pics, could be anything but you have forgotten to tell us what vehicle year / type you have and what if any non standard extras fitted that may need the extra cable.

Yep, hate those electric handbrakes. I said that to the salesman when we test drove the wife's Zafira. He said, after a while you will never want to go back to manual handbrake. Well, I hate them even more now ! Especially since Mrs borrowed...

If air is getting in it has to be at the pump, any thing after would show as a leak.

Hi all sorry for the delayed response and thank you for the words of wisdom. Yes the transfer box has been leaking as i top it up every year with about 0.5 litre of oil. However after taking the advice i jacked up and spun the rear wheels, and...

To check for air coming through the system could you disconnect fuel pipe in the engine bay and run the pump with pipe in a clear jar to check.

As above, a problem selecting gears is a clutch, main box issue. Transfer box, put the diff lock in and see how much movement you have at the flanges [both props need to be off to do this properly] If there is a lot of slop when one flange is...

That's pretty much what I figured I'd need to do. Thanks to all for their input

The original ones still there? If so mark their position, cut off and weld replacements in the marked place.

As above @kermit_rr re thermostat. I often say for older vehicles you can not beat having an aftermarket capillary type temperature gauge, keep original for looks and fit it somewhere else. They read in numbers/degrees and no electrics to bother...

Many thanks both. I have just ordered an IR temp reader from off ebay as I am starting to think its actually fine on temp, but it is the sensor/wiring/new thermostat. Going to remove the termostat tonight and run it without it. I read last night...

If the top hose is hot then the thermostat is opening or stuck open. Remove the radiator cap. Rev the engine a bit, can you see the water move? If so then the pump is working. If the level doesn't rise then the water must be going somewhere ie...

All series gauge's are getting well old. The one in mine just about lifts off the bottom when up to temp. Check what temp you actually have with a IR temp reader, aim at thermostat, top hose, rad bottom hose. I had a job to find a new thermostat...

Throw up some pictures as it may help. I am not familiar with the new gearboxes. But the older ones had a couple of small earth cables for the difflock switch’s etc. and also has reverse switch wiring as well.

Sorry to say but that is not a crack. That is the result of corrosion working out from the inside of the chassis box section. What is worse is that someone in the past has done a rubbish job of patching the area probably hiding worse underneath...

I would add a second earth strap to the chassis from engine if not got one already as the engine and gearbox sits on rubber mounts

No, not that I can see.

Mine is earthed to the engine block and the radiator support bracket - definitely not standard, but it works. As the engine sits on rubber mounts, it sort of makes sense to provide a good return from the starter motor via the block.

2+ shocks this used to happen to my son's Ninety when laning. Standard length shocks and it isn't a problem.