tottot's latest activity

Seen the same bump on military 3, no idea what it did/was for.

I recon the most vehicle owners do to limit corrosion some is wash them and often the most important bits are ignored anyway. Went to see a Focus for a daughter. Shiny on the outside with hardly a mark. Inside very tidy and she was enamoured...

Great write-up. The new Defender is also a big miss for me. Nothing remotely appealing it at all, and I've been a LR fan for 50 years. I also find it one of the strangest looking vehicles on the road. The 90 isn't too bad, but the 110 is hideous...

Thanks for your knowledge tottot, very much appreciated. Mal :vb-tup::vb-tup:

MOT no advisories! Yea right, not a proper mot. If you can yourself a good tap around with a little hammer will soon show up any serious issues. If not take to someone who can. Quite a bit of crusty stuff down there, spring pan by exhaust looks...

NExt step Will BE to remove the other half shaft for inspection ...

If master rod has not enough free play fluid can be slow to return to reservoir even when pedal has been pulled up by its return spring.

Given that the diff is welded the same amount of torque will have gone to the other shaft as well, however such breakages often happen when a wheel has bounced high in the air and the power is still on when it lands back down. The other shaft...

That half shaft has had a tremendous amount of torque put through it for that to happen. I have known the stub in the diff to have welded itself in place from the heat generated as shaft twists apart. Given the welded diff and because of that...

Update - thanks all, put everything back to basics and tuned it by ear with a gunson for RPM. Plugs seem nice a brown so will check back after a longer run

Yes that input shaft bolt was an odd one, recon most of time for change was spent looking for through my collection for one.

Yes, my record was 15 minutes from the car park, do the clutch, put it back in the car park, and clock off the job. I was one of the slower mechanics in the workshop at the time. The thread in the hollow input shaft youmentioned was a bit of an...

In that case likely it is a box from a 2 or early 2a.

Std rings are available https://www.paddockspares.com/rtc6457-piston-rings-std-200tdi.html Unless I am missing something with your piston number? J

The "A" suffix at the end of the stamped in number of the box denotes it is [any cast numbers are not serial numbers] an early one from the 54 to 66 period. The very early ones had the suffix near the gearstick position then later suffix is to be...

As an ex mod 110 engine likely a 12j 2.5 non turbo diesel. There is a second plug hole in the base of timing belt housing for the same reason.

Are you ready for this? We are talking standard transmission units here. There were changes to series one box's during production and there were changes to series 2a ones as well. Times the transmission remained the same were from Series one 86...

That is the clutch housing and the hole should be open in normal use. Any oil coming out here will be the result of a crankshaft rear seal leak. A plug is fitted if deep water wading is expected. If truck still has tool kit plug may be in it.

Mk 2 Cavalier, Simplest ever clutch change. On the front wheel drive gearbox/engine housing bottom there was a half moon plate that gave access to the clutch. First you tapped in some clips to squeeze the unit up some so it would be narrow enough...

Ah yes. My Citroen ZX. Took all Saturday to remove the dashboard. EVENTUALLY! Haynes manual said to remove dash, SOD THAT thought i so commenced removing bits because i wasn't going to remove the whole dash. Until i did! Then discovered the new...

No mate, Land Rovers right up to the end of original Defender have a transmission Hand brake on the back of the transfer box, and therefore acts on the prop shaft. Works fine as long as both rear wheels are on the ground or with series if it is...

Will try to remove the diff rear plate and check it out tommorow. Thank you all for the help and sorry about the not so good written English, I am writting on a smartphone and it is not my native language :)

When you get the broken shaft out just do not bother with a replacement until you find another axle or decide to fix the diff you have. At least it will not scrub on the corners, after all that is how it has been working for some time. I would...

Yes, i have all the brackets fitted. I can't see any movement in the brakets themselves, the whole lot moves brackets, steering box and bulkhead. I'll have a good check of all fixings in the morning and report back. Thanks

Good news, your rover diff will be a spare for the front axle.

Wrong that’s a Salisbury axle which is correct for the 109

If you remove the cross pin and then it may be possible to smack out the gears [ could be torched out ] Bevel/planetary gear set available.

It can be the metal at the inner end of the shaft has turned [burred] over as a result of it being driven while still having the broken shaft in place. It may hammer out but removing the hub and the stub axle may well be the best answer.

If that diff is welded you will need a new one or at least a set of the bevel gears.

That diff doesn't look welded to me.