If the bores are ok and within tolerance of the +20 oversize and pistons not worn or damaged they can be used again but then youlll need to check the end gaps of piston rings in the bores to see if they are in spec if they are use again without...
Some higher res photos would be better a few MB rather that KB ,but the area where the crank seal runs looks better, I cleaned bearing surfaces with some 1000grit wet and dry and some wd40
Need a mic to measure diameters to check, not sure you...
Ah so the clearances were to tight? I had in my mind they would be slack, if that is the case that makes a lot of sense.
If that is all it was I would be buying a lottery ticket:banana:
Think I’ve had exhaust noises coming out of air filter when one exhaust valve not set properly as that was only way gas could get out! , glad you sorted it
I would leave pump on for now , if you rotate crank until all the timing marks line up ,then you can insert the locking tool in pump then release the tensioner wheel to remove belt , then you can unbolt pistons and push them out top of block with...
Do you know what the 'click' is ?
It's likely that it is the starter solenoid.
The contacts wear and don't make proper contact so there is not enough current (power) to turn the starter motor/engine over.
Your battery may also be a little flat...
I've reluctantly started to give Leylandi series 3, some protection today. Last weekend I used a wire brush on a drill and white spirit to remove old waxoyl then jetwashed.
I used Jenolite rust converter and 2 coats of Buzzweld chassis in one...
I just use my body weight and a bit of maths to do the sum to know where to stand on my breaker bar plus extension. It seems to work. But obvs far better to have the proper kit!
Mot fast approaching so booked in for Friday, so I replaced a damages front door, (Banged up) the welded up the rust on my front windscreen (Bad Winter), only to get the 3 amigos for the first time, which the lead me to get a used Nanocom, from a...
Did you remove the battery connectors and clean then tighten up , similar issue on daughters Corsa other week with the click , and batt terminal need nipped up
Does the clutch pipe fit it and have you correct clutch cylinder
What year S3 perhaps earlier ones have a imperial thread
Can you measure any thread sizes
These have lots bits
https://www.carbuilder.com/collections/braking-clutch-parts/unions
http://smithies.co.nz/land_rover/
Also the 200tdi article on turner engineering
The discovery 1 manual very helpful and Britannia does good videos , he has loads so have a search
Sump:bolts should not be tight, sometimes a 1/4 “ drive rattle...
Hole in cylinder or piston , sounds like a strip down check and rebuild if block ok
Seen an eBay advert and there was a barn full of tdi engines at reasonable price
I used 100mm long bolts, yes use the circled holes, don’t need to go full depth, I used additional nuts on the bolt to nip them up and saved cutting bolts
https://www.toolstation.com/high-tensile-set-screw/p51414
Thanks my stand looks exactly like yours, I measured how far the studs go in to engine and the top is 2 about 35mm and bottoms about 30mm, the tubes on stand are 70mm so think I will need bolts about 120mm or longer. pic of mine so is it 4...