steve2286w's latest activity

http://smithies.co.nz/land_rover/ Also the 200tdi article on turner engineering The discovery 1 manual very helpful and Britannia does good videos , he has loads so have a search Sump:bolts should not be tight, sometimes a 1/4 “ drive rattle...

Yes big socket on crank nut

Hole in cylinder or piston , sounds like a strip down check and rebuild if block ok Seen an eBay advert and there was a barn full of tdi engines at reasonable price

Have you checked the tappets

I used 100mm long bolts, yes use the circled holes, don’t need to go full depth, I used additional nuts on the bolt to nip them up and saved cutting bolts https://www.toolstation.com/high-tensile-set-screw/p51414

Thanks my stand looks exactly like yours, I measured how far the studs go in to engine and the top is 2 about 35mm and bottoms about 30mm, the tubes on stand are 70mm so think I will need bolts about 120mm or longer. pic of mine so is it 4...

you should use the top 2 and the bottom 2 holes , my stand is a clarke and you can see the adjusting brackets and the long 10mm bolts with additional locknuts, it can revolve 360 degrees and lock in position just under the rubber gloves with a...

Been thinking about them bolts. Maybe hammer a m10 or m12 nut over the bolt head, then weld nut to bolt head, gives you more meat to play with.

CharlesY knew his engines and how to loosen bolts, That plug is similar position to the 2286 but without the inspection cover , do you have one at btm as the 200tdi should, wonder if it’s a hybrid or off another engine, see if it lines up when...

my link includes crank puller tool which doubles up for using to take the pump out without removing the belt.

I got a kit like this, the 9.5mm? dia goes in injection pump, while the other bit screws in btm flywheel cover screws in slot in flywheel stop it turning

Thanks Mate just read your post on your rebuild, Great Job you done there Mate, some great Info there will save it to look back on. Have not checked my bearings yet but gonna try and get engine out tomorrow to fit on stand and will have a...

If you have original honing that’s good, similar to mine the rusty coloured pot might clean up ok ensure no pitting , it’s probably standard bore , if you clean top of pistons some stamping might confirm it Bore should be nominally 90.47mm , if...

Took my Toyota Hilux head to them for pressure test and skim last year, 100 quid, the bores were ok so I got one of them honing things that fits on drill and honed the bores, kept the origional pistons but put new rings on and everything was...

One other thing to do while it is out is to change the rear crank shaft seal. I recommend you use a Dowty type seal ERR2532 OEM along with a new gasket between block and flywheel housing. Follow book instructions with fitting the seal.

Cleasby’s good for rebore cost me £240+ vat 2 year ago on the 2286cc, but the 200tdi practicallly had no bore wear could still see the original honing marks after 125k

Thanks Mate found the 200tdi manual, some others too. Depending what state Injectors are in I might get them rebuilt, there is a guy local that does them. Will get a few more bits off over the weekend, Once the heads off will probably get it...

http://smithies.co.nz/land_rover/ Some manuals here, the injectors strip down easily if you’re going that father, i bought one of them ultrasonic cleaners to the clean the disassembled injectors worked really well getting rid of hard carbon Just...

Apologies, numbers back to front, **** eyes and the mobile do not work!

Best to put in on u tube and post the link on here

Different to how mines plumbed in 😗

Just had a look on mine 1 comes from top fuel filter connection and is the supply to the IP 2 pumps to fuel filter , the other union on lift pump is from tank 3 is the fuel spill line from injectors and back to tank via a banjo union

There’s several 200tdi check and rebuild thread in the engine section if you search, nice engine to work on And also a good 200tdi rebuild article here https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/blogs/news?page=2

Just thought I might get an Inclination of whats wrong , if anything is. But lets face it the bloody thing has been stood for god knows how many years , at the least its gonna get a timing belt and water pump, but think the best bet is like...

If starting without rad I’d still connect some pipes and fill with water to run it so don’t get too hot

12v going to the stop solenoid on the injection pump, gravity feed some fuel and starter motor to battery is about it. Take the 12v off the stop solenoid to stop it.

Cup of Tea and a Fag

I'd start with a cup of coffee. Keep us updated.