Recent content by stag888

Well - Ignition barrel changed and now back on the road - it’s amazing how loose the old key was compared to the new new , and guess what it seems my intermittent ignition light issues seems to have disappeared as well . So that’s that sorted - moving on now to the next challenge that has shown...

Took the barrel off and the ignition switch literally came apart before I had a chance to remove the wires - well and truly shot , surprised it worked at all no chance of cleaning or repairing . What was interesting was the type - as I thought size / diameter wise and number of terminals it...

Yes , had a look and poke through the dash , nothing obvious but will have a more thorough look when I take it out Thanks

Got it to start , checking the coil again the voltage & also obviously the oil pressure light would flicker on and off depending on the exact position of key in the barrel when "On" , jiggling it so that the light stayed on and then shorting the starter it fired up immediately and stayed...

Yes checked coil with a known good one , no difference , has electronic ignition , Is there a way to bypass the ignition switch, just to confirm that's the issue ?

Checked battery - still good , checked coil also good , plenty of fuel , and and carburation , timing all good .... it all seems to come back to the switch ... as always never simple. My LR has the locking set up so has a key barrel at one end and a switch/ connector at the other , so when you...

Checked have 12+ volts @ the coil on run / on position

Some progress , not good , now will not turn over on the key , just a thud , but will turn over well , but still not start when I short across the starter solenoid .

Petrol

Hi, Bit of a strange one , after years of staring first time have out of the blue developed a starting issue - Won't start , any guidance or advise appreciated . Basically the engine turns over , and will fire up , however as soon as the key is allowed to return to the rest / on position the...

Well , got a multimeter , checked continuity , checked the ohm resistance against the figures in the recent diesel temp post - almost identical , believe it's definitely the gauge so took that apart ... a very delicate affair , couldn't see anything amiss inside , but then I don't really know...

After a week of checking was my engine actually overheating , have come to the conclusion - No . The gauge may be reading high, however after a good long run , am getting a warm bottom hose , and 170deg at the neck of the radiator. Which is what I gather is about right . I changed the sender ...

No multimeter at the moment , but will follow up - Thanks

I should get the temp sender in at the weekend , and can take it for a longer run then , let’s see what does .... fuel gauge seems to be behaving , so perhaps not voltage regular . Will see the weekend brings before I start thinking head gasket Cheers

Well checked water pump , no wobble, spins relatively smoothly , checked rad with cap off and yes the water does move , and increases in line with revs , doesn't seem like a huge amount , but then not sure how much the pump is expected to displace , so it is working . Temp still goes up to close...