SimonBrown's latest activity

Alloy rivnuts turned up and have been fitted to the outer wing: And the Deutsch electrical connectors and crimp tool arrived: Which is an improvement over those awful bullet connectors fitted as standard. The RH wing is in a worse state...

Small steps getting things ready to paint. Rivnuts for the inner and outer wings:

Under bonnet brackets now ready for paint: And the good news continues with the inner wings found to be galvanised. A couple of rust patches but otherwise very servicable and cleaned ready to paint:

Clever stuff that 3D model.

A visit to the Irn-Bru production facility this morning showed the process had worked: It looks grim but the nails have done their job: And the rusty bits now have a black finish: It does not eliminate any mechanical clean, but sorts the...

So far...everything electrical except the heater fan has worked. This includes the glow plug preheat on the Iszuz. But...like a lot of vehicles approaching its 40th birthday there are a lot of "terminate in fresh air" connectors and unknown...

A few more hours devoted to the Landy. Some of the under bonnet bracketry as a "patina" of rust. Never tried it before so thoought I would try the electroysis method of getting rid of the metal moth. Well, no so much get rid of it but convert it...

The wings are finally off. Time for another 3D model and record of as-is: Link to the 3D model is here: 3D Model of engine bay There is a special corner of hell reserved for the person who thought bolting the outer wings on was a great idea...

The rh wing gave up the battle and is now off. The bulkhead is still looking OK for some small repairs, a strip & galvanise and refit. The lower steering UJ was knocking and an MOT failure, but turns out it was not clamped tight enough on the...

I have done a good trawl of the forum...the internet...and even asked ChatGTP* and have found a low res example (as per the title) but does anyone know of a source of a wiring diagram? I have seen the lovely 110 military examples but these are...

An hour spent before dinner last night saw the wayward electrical wiring examined... Its not pretty: The horn wiring seems to transit the engine bay via lh wing, cable clips in front of rad, rh wing...back into the engine bay and onto the air...

Removing the lh wing has proved...problematic. The snorkel is right in the way of the bulkhead bolts, and to remove that means the heater box is coming out. So that little project was parked until I could create a 3D record of the as-is of the...

my compliments for the project! As an engine to have a simple thing you could use the BMW M51D25 of the P38, also mounted on the E39 525tds, using the gearbox bell of the P38 for the R380. This engine was born with an electronic FIP and an ECU...

With the floor up the R380 serial number is much easier to read. Its prefix is 68A with a suffix of L. Which, I think, means its a long stick originally fitted to a Defender. This may guide future choices for an engine swap...some may be easier...

Had a spare hour today so turned attention to the side locker. If there was ever a feature added that was a) designed to rust and b) designed to catch and retain crud, this modification qualifies. At some point its been patched with stainless...

Every resto starts with the first bolt. Mine happened to be the rear propshaft UJ. I want to keep things as mobile as possible and the clunk from the rear had to go. All that rust had to go and the polywheel cleaned it up a treat. All the bits...

I have been mulling over what to do with the Isuzu lump. A 200TDI or 300TDI would be a logical way to go, if (and its a big if) a swap is to be made. I will get some photos of the current engine mounts and get opinions on how much its been...

I’m not that upto date with the internals… I would not strip the sailsbury as you need special tools. Should be bearings on the swivels

Does this mean swivel bearings, not bushes? 32 splines rather than 24 on the half shaft? All will become clear once stripped, but its always good to know what lurks before undoing the bolts.

Pre TD5….( So later 300tdi 110 as the rear axle was not fitted to discos(sailsbury disk) And the front axle has the larger calipers for the 110.

If the axles were put on at the same time that’s from a late 300tdi 110. Have you a photo of the front arms to chassis ? This will confirm not a later model

Best shots I can get with the wheels in place. Wheels coming off soon, but in the meantime hope these help with ID:

I'm picking up the mood music on this...I did think it looked not unlike a 101 at the diff housing.

Rear salisbury disc braked is nice ;) Solid dependable unit.

Front axle is probably standard and original unless there was call for it to be changed. All the front axles look mostly the same and relatively few changes over the years.

Wolf wheels, or officially heavy duty rims. Fitted to military wolf defenders hence the name.

Agreed, the front id will be on the near side front near the top iirc stamped in & wire wheel n drill to clean the rust off.

Rear is a Salisbury so that's good. id is on the top axle tube if I recall but it's been a while and it's hard to see without wire brushing the cack off.

These axles and wheels are fitted to my 1987 110 (the one in projects...up for restoration). The front axle serial number is elusive and I cannot find it but could do with an ID: Any clues there? Next, the rear axle. This is fitted with...

It'll be the displacement, V5 really doesn't care or list the make of an engine or if it has turbos or not. Just displacement and the engine number. The the Izusu is 2.8 litres instead of the factory 2.5 litres, it'll be easy to spot if its been...