SimonBrown's latest activity

The seabelt points on the rear tub are now drilled and ready for final fit: And the LH B pillar is done too: Just need an hour or three to get a clear run as the sealant wont give us a second chance. Time for a few patch repairs on the front...

The B pillar lower sections were not in great shape: The spot welds make a nice popping sound when the fail. It did feel brutal and running the slitting wheel that close to good bodywork did raise the stakes. The wooden wedge idea came from...

A few rear body replacement YRM panels turned up today. They were supposed to arrive Thursday but Fedex seemed to think finding the actual delivery address just too much trouble. The seat belt and B post lowers both needed attention. So the...

This is putting my efforts on Izzy's 110 tub to shame...but equally its inspiration. Once the garden rework pace slackens...back at it.

Its done !!! And Im also done in ! 12 hrs in the man cave, 1lt of etch primer, 2 lts of high build primer, 3 sheets or 80 120 and 400 grit block sanding pads and two bottles of Proper Job IPA and the tub is finally ready for top coat.

Thing is with LR is to me they are a work horse. Spent ages on 1 build & jumped into the nice leather trim… & scratched them with a Jean button.. trim out & back to cloth. The Hicap was a purpose built motor. All straight, gleaming paint...

I have used HB Body Pro S115 and HMP seam seal both as equally as good. But the HB stuff does dry slightly harder

Cheers mate. Will have a play this weekend. Do some more head scratching

I have a similar aged 110 that has seen an engine, gearbox and rear diff swap at some point in its near 40 years existence. It also has some funky what-could-possibly-go-wrong wiring mods. Its for a military variant with things like IR and...

I'm about to go through a similar process on my tub...more or less. Two questions: What adhesive are you using to bond the panels? Having used it, would you recommend or use it again?

Occasionally you find things and think "What made you think this was a good idea?". This looked like a act of automotive electrial self harm. One of the headlight wires had a "splice" cut into it...I say splice but it struggles to qualify. It...

Finished stripping the steel parts from the tub today. So far, small remedial work only required except the B pillar and seat belt mountings. B pillar YRM patches etc will be ordered soon. The rear corner cappings are a mixed result. The RH...

Agree. They are a great company to deal with. I got some stuff off them early doors of them starting up and they were brilliant. I’m glad they haven’t lost that touch.

I would remove the stuck bolt and get a wire wheel on it before decideing it is BER. you may find a lot of the mess is the bolt and washer rather than the bracket. But if it is the YRM panel is likly to be what you want and you then need to...

The corner panels are just surface rust from the pictures and do not need replacement. Just give them a good rub down, treat with rust converter, and then prime and paint. The b pillar repair is detailed in the yrm workshop Section along with...

The LH side is OK and recoverable. However, the RH side is what we used to designate BER - Beyond Economical Repair. Here's some piccys: It aint pretty! YRM have the replacement bits (Link: Brackets) so someone has done it. I think its a...

There are spot weld removal bits available, better than a standard bit.

I’ve done the front pillars. You need to drill out the spot welds to get the old part off. Replacements are available from YRM. They recommend installing these using structural adhesive, obviously as most of us don’t have access to an aluminum...

Acquired a replacement rear tub and body sides for the 110 resto/rebuild. Its in great shape but has a couple of areas of concern. The LH and RH rear corner stiffeners in the body sides have rusted. The RH is worse than the LH: This is not...

The replacement rear tub arrived yesterday. Its like its destiny...as the colour matches the bulkhead. The cappings were awful and have been removed...but underneath the alloy is sound. Its not perfect and there are a few issues to resolve...

A few fixings arrived and the LH wing has been reassembled to check fit and how the rivnuts work in practice. The gap between outer and top wing is something I can live with. Not keen on seeing a self tapping screw being wound into a...

Work on Izzy (Now named...no guesses why) has slowed a little. Relandscaping the garden has kicked off now the weather lets us get the mini digger on ground. But small jobs tick over. The LH and RH front lighting and engine bay wiring has been...

I’m also the same when it comes to thinking of what happens in the future & making life easier. The build is going well. Like the 3D imagined pictures

Thought…. Will them rivnuts leave a big gap in the wing joint?

I did think about a) using countersunk rivnuts (not really enough thickness) or b) forgetting rivnuts and revert to nut & bolt. But I decided a small gap, on a panel that cannot be described as A class or straight, as something to live with for...

You would be amazed what a lick of paint can do. The drivers wing I fitted during my rebuild after the fire (original melted) was very much a farmers wing and I knocked the dents out as best as I could and then painted it and fitted. It look...

Panel beating is an art...I can knock a dent out...but there is a huge difference between the two. This vehicle will be a daily drive, so the concours look can wait for the next one. Thanks for the insight - much appreciated.

The only thing I have done to sort a crunched wing id replace the whole thing with a better [not new] one. However recon you are on more of a restoration than fix up. It is not hard to remove spot welds, there are special drill bits to do just...

I have done a few wings, It depends on the finish you are going for as to if it is worth the effort. In a show room truck then it is not work the effort as unless you have some serious skills, you will be riveting back together all the spotwelds...

I sometimes wonder what LR designers were thinking, and the jointing methods & materials used on the front wings is a catalogue of curious decisions. The working theory is thus; by riveting, bolting and spot welding the wing it was designed as a...