Shogun243's latest activity

Have you got the original battery terminal clamps. If it's 12.whatever at idle it may not be alternator fault completely. Try take off all wires at alternator and clean and put back. Clean negative at body...clean all negative.

So - I've confirmed voltage at idle is 12-12.6 or so. When revved, this goes up to around 13-14. This likely to be contributary? Really not looking forward to replacing the alternator if required - I understand this is a rad out job!

I find anything to do with loss of power regarding the battery causes other things to act up. So battery terminal, battery, alternator. Running like a wild animal when full charge power is corrected. I have found from experience.

Thanks - I'll try the fluctuation. Voltage on battery at idle is 12.3 so the alternator has also left the chat, i found out today!

That's in the "grey zone" in which case only measuring the real pressure at the FPR would be relevant

Finally got a multimeter and measured 17.5mV across fuse F10 - this is below the 23mV quoted as healthy but not 10mV, this cause for concern?

It's the other way around, too much fuel/lack of air = high EGT hence the superchargers are improving things, also if it's low boost for some management issue or other reason the EGT gets higher... the MAP sensor is quite suspect on your's at...

My shaky knowledge of fuel/air mix says too little fuel too much air = high EGT but I'm not sure. Have just realised that throughout this ordeal there hasn't been a single light on the dash also! Multimeter should arrive today so should be able...

I sincerely hope not! Any way to tell?

Hey folks, quick update: I'm afraid I've still not sourced a multimeter, however I have this evening installed a replacement injector loom and associated gasket. The truck started and drove nicely, then round the corner we started losing power...

It transpires that my multimeter no longer...meters. shows 00 regardless of what leads I use on a reliable 12v source. I recall it being difficult on the last job I used it for at work. Will pop to halfrauds for one ASAP!

Missed that - literally just ordered the JGS kit whilst waiting for the flatbed! Next time. Been told a lot of folks change the harness with each service, so may add that to the list of jobs. Will update once it is fitted and the ECU drained...

I'll give that a go - a new harness is being ordered today!

I know you have said the AA sprayed the harness plugs, but you need to remove the ECU and stand it on end plug side down overnight. A new harness might also be required !!

Update guys, currently roadside on a bypass with a rather unhappy TD5, not revving much past 1500, spluttering and chucking out smoke. Got AA on call but a kindly fellow enthusiast/mechanic stopped. He immediately pulled the injector harness off...

Cheers Griff. No cruise at present. I've actually got a clutch sensor on the shelf in the shed but when we had the gearbox off to do clutch/flywheel a couple of years back bleeding the thing was such a b**tard I'm reticent to disturb the natural...

The over reving may be due to the clutch switch. Do you have cruise control? If so engage it then depress the clutch and it should turn off. Griff

Morning all, Pulled the F2 this morning and took it out. Same symptoms I'm afraid. Other things it does that may be related - at full chat pulling around 3.5-4k it surges very noticably. It also has a habit of overrevving when changing gear...

I dont know that tool. If it's multivehicle type which lets you select the vehicle modell and covers the D2 and you can scan each particular ECU (in this case Td5 engine management/powertrain/what ever they call it) then you should try, if it can...

almost, it's for MAF, wastegate modulator and EGR(hopefully this was bypassed).... though the best would be to see some live data from a ride when the symptom occurs, that would be the really relevant thing

EGR has been blanked off, though that was done by me so can't comment on whether it was done correctly. A sh*part kit with a plenum adaptor and a plate for the other side. I'm afraid I don't have a nanocom nor chums with one. I assume the...

then most probably Eu3 confirmed if the airbox sensor has 4 wires

I'll do a wire count on the airbox on my return. Just checked a vague photo from a while back and it looks like MAF has 2 going to it, will confirm. Am I right in thinking that F2 is fuel system related?

Hi Sierra, thanks for the input. I'll pull the F2 fuse once I'm back at Base (out with the boss currently). How does one tell whether the engine is EU2 or EU3? When mapped the ECU did not need to be removed, it was flashed there and then if...

Morning all! My beloved money pit has now decided that if you hoof it in 5th around 60 it runs out of power and becomes a lemon for 15 seconds or so. This also occurs when I downshift from 4th to 3rd for example to engine brake - it suddenly...

Further to this, rain appears to be finding its way in again - the carpet is now damp after each rain again! This time it doesn't appear to be dripping from the bottom of the blower unit so I'm stumped! Had my sunroof drains sorted when I had a...

Update: 2 x replacements still leaked. My old man is a stubborn git so one was a scrapper spare and the other was a chinesium copy - both leaked. At the moment he's building a pyre to burn the truck on and is not buying another valveblock - he...