Rubberknees's latest activity

One of the pipes looks out of line kiddo, once they're both placed the aluminum bracket on the rear can be brought towards the collar with the screw through it and nipped up. My advice, (although not worth shït apparently) walk away have a few...

Finally continuing with my plan from a couple of weeks back and managed to nip out on to the driveway and change the oil in the rear diff this evening. No record of it being done but that's not to say it hasn't at some point. This could...

Now here's a real nice person for you.😄 Let us know how you get on with the 38'.😊

Ranger 3.2 wildtrack, 3500kgs capacity yeah, emptyed the spare wheel and my usual junk that takes my RR to 2780kgs usually with me in it too so it is somewhere near 2550kg, his trailers 850kg, luckily we have a weigh bridge and i had to remove a...

Why not just remove it and go to your friendly garage/motor factors and get a new O ring? Or measure it and get 1 online. A bit of sealant probably wouldnt hurt, but then you are just doing similar to what you have just accused/complained about a...

No. If lpg isn't exactly right (hard to do on a modern log system on an old efi car) you can end up with very hot combustion temps. Brave that it's your only wheels. Been there done that

+2^^^^^^

+1 ^^^^^^^^

Quote (it's my daily car and only car.) brave man most of us have a back up motor or two :vb-biggrin:

Good job my MY 2000 P38 is approaching 25,000 miles. It finally feels like it is "loosening up" quite nicely. Most problems are due to the rubber elements breaking down and failing. I am perfectly happy with the performance and see no need for...

No need to link the internal pipes. Use compressed air to blow the coolant out of the heater matrix.

Blimey, is that little pick up rated to tow 3.5 tonnes plus?

Got it recovered back too mine, now just to plan a trip too windsor and get the new one up the road and decide which one im keeping,

This is where the passion comes in.. 😂

+1 its an easy job to by pass under bonnet

Easy mornings work. Disconnect the rubber pipes under the bonnet and link them together, then you can use the car, heater not needed this weather.

Are you upto speed lad🤔😜

Try Youtube sure there's a couple of videos

Yes you're right. I hope that wasn't a senior moment!! I'm not senior yet!!! But it's probably still related.. limp mode.. etc

Just cut the bolts off. I’ve got a few stainless nuts and bolts here you can have. I had to do the same to mine. It won’t be “original” but it’s still secure.

Deposit on another one from someone i know, another silver 4.2 supercharged, 107k full history, if thats the better shell il use all my bumpers and lights and get my plate transferred over somehow (34year old and don't know anything about private...

Whole f_ckin' day wasted today on those two bolts and no further forward. That and trying to bleed the high pressure pipes with 2 dodgy batteries that **** themselves as soon as you try to crank. Utterly wasted ****ing day. Those bolts have one...

+1

I had this issue, it was solved quite quickly with a blowtorch and hacking away at the housing around the nut until I could just about fit a wrench on it to keep it still

Wreck the rad mountings, and use a stainless nut and bolt on reassembly.

Even better, put my old valve body in, now the gearbox has locked up everything checked, even my old pan back on old bridge square thing everything as it drove here yesterday, Checked the airline in the clutch e tube no blowby or escaping air...

It converts the logic level signals from the ECU to levels that drive the solenoids.

The black electrical rectangular thing bolted to side of valve block

Well that went well..... everything checked and torqued to the manual, .... its absolutely horrific now, loads of failed 3rd to 4th changes, slam into 6th, sometimes wont come out of 6th. I don't actually even want to drive it more then the...