Rubberknees's latest activity

What's the date on the rear tyres?

First pic is before next are the ones I got yesterday. On closer inspection rear tyres need replacing as side wall hazing. So that means 2 tyres to buy. On inspecting old wheels 3 tyres very good and 1 damaged plus rim is OK so 1 new tyre needed...

We all are - Normal P38 paranoia. So we just need to be methodical and thorough. Now you have a new latch start with the door latch test. Don’t rush - it takes as long as it takes so long as it’s done correctly. We need to 100% rule things out as...

Marty's door latch tests

+1 on sort the blend motors. Step-1 try moving them to 50% with Nanocom, and also try the Calibration option. Essentially you have two issues, i.e. the blend & distribution motors, plus probably no gas causing the compressor clutch error.

Sounds like a failed blend motor off the bat🤔

Isn't that what the archbishop said to the actress lol.

Like a lady I used to know. Ooops I digress :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Heat it up & peel slowly.

Best trying to remove tints on a hot day then stand a better chance of not leaving any residue behind, must have been tints in back of car I have now and it's been a bloody pain trying to get what ever it is that it leaves behind off !

Well top and bottom knuckles changed both sides good job @Flossie I took the sensors, they were used.. Both bottom knuckles were worn. Also left hand tyre was deformed on tread. Ended up buying four new (well old new) wheels with tyres for £60...

I've taken 2 abs sensors with me just in case ;) ;) 👍

If you dropped it off for me to do, I'd still be trying to get one of the abs sensors out later this afternoon. Car would be ready to pick up, all sorted, some time in October. :vb-lol: :vb-groan2::vb-groan2:. I proper struggled.

Heres abit of a dumb question: But did you actually clear the fault codes on the ABS controller? What are the current fault codes that the ABS controller gives? Did you insert the ABS sensors fully? If they not close enough to the toothed wheel...

Dropped the Rangie off this morning to have the steering knuckle joints changed . Should be ready later this afternoon for pick up

Bought her a nice new R/H front indicator cluster. Checked, double checked, checked again and bought the correct one. Only I didn't. I bought the L/H 🤦‍♀️🤣 but it's ok. It can go in the shed until needed 😁

You forgot the step ladder and scaffolding 😂

Just pull the line?!

Don't worry, when the under try is full, it will once again drip onto your drive.

Today I finally got replacement under trays through the post, on they went to cover up the oil leaks. Can't see them, they're not there........

Dam it , I knew I was doing something wrong as I kept asking my mirror 🤣👍

Only 5 posts before a constructive comment, must be a record :)

If it's a high number then happy days If it's a low one it's normal.

Actually had my 3 last week (Fuel leak, new battery, SRS light....again) so should be safe for a week or 2. Sh1t shouldn't have said that.

I'll try my crystal ball. Somethings coming through, wait, wait, and there it is a Range Rover sport 2012 3.0 litre diesel. Dare I ask when/what my next issue will be :eek:

What vehicle, petrol or diesel? My crystal ball has gone a bit cloudy.

A standard yellow one as in the under bonnet fuse box, 4 pins.

Thanks everyone. That makes sense. Would it be a 5 terminal relay or 4?

IMO If you want it that is. No electrical mod will stop this. The self leveling doesnt use air from the tank, It will only level down the air springs and will only get to the bump stops if it has a leak in 1 or more corners. There is a leak...

It should not drop to the bump stops every night, mine stay up for 2 weeks or more. Just change the EAS relay to stop self leveling. Whatever you do, it will drop if there is a leak.