Recent content by RRDave

Or more concisely the Vacuum switch in this diagram, many thanks. I've been struggling a lot with this 3.5 flapper. I thought they were supposed to be simple!

Hi Datatek, okay so the position in which the key first clicks is what I mean, it usually energises the radio, dashlights and coil. I just wonder if anyone has any knowledge of what precedes the fuel shut off.

Hi all, I have a 1988 3.5 v8 Range Rover. It is the flapper type. In ignition position 1, I have no voltage to the coil, I've checked the fuel shutoff valve and theres no voltage coming from the white cable coming from the ignition itself. I have replaced the ignition switch with a brand new...

Looking fantastic. Thorough quality work for sure Helimadken. I noticed a firm on Facebook recently called Range Rover Restorations. Their repairs looked awful! Considering they charge 15k for a full shell restoration!! Check them out and see what you think! Looking forward to seeing the end...

I think the 2.25 will suit the car and be closer to originality. Everyone does need a v8 in there life though, so it depends if you plan on getting another landy with a v8. If you're not I'd steer towards a nice low powered early 3.5

You'd be best getting a used hot wire system, I have read somewhere it's hard getting the flappers to run just right with a 3.9 apparently they lean out too much further up the revs unfortunately. The bonus is 3.9 injectors are peanuts compared to the 3.5s, I think a hot wire system would be...

The drain holes are a funny one because my a pillars don't.have them but my b pillars do, but they got rubber caps in them? I tend to agree I think I'd leave them solid.

Looking really really nice, lots and lots of time being spent doing a quality job. =D

I think petrol is the way forward, smells much nicer, nice and simple to maintain. I don't think it's worth putting a v8 in a series, they're are defenders and range rovers designed just for that. The plus of an old diesel is you can run it on ANYTHING =D even tears of a vegetarian economy...

Have you looked at corrolan rust treatment, it's lanolin stuff. I think it's the same as lanogaurd but cheaper! I've got some test patches in my garden and it seems good. No rust after two weeks,it's not much to go on. I think I'm going to try it on mine. I got some penetrant stuff and then the...

Looks like plenty of fun!

Thanks for your kind words =D. Yeah got to say tigerseal is lovely stuff! Very smooth.

I think that's pretty much the same as mine, had a relatively easy life but still fallen foul of the typical rust areas. Phew I was worried you might be doing it outside! If I were you I'd get the chassis done fully first then you can leave that outside and keep the body dry, I'm doing just a...

Those doors should last a few years now. I'm convinced no RRClassic is original. It's a car that needs constantly welding and rejuvenating =D. Do you have to wait for the weather for dismantling the car? I just hope you have some indoor space to do your restoration? =) for your sake ='D

Looks good! I think you'll get along with this project just fine =D. I wouldn't worry about that drain tube you know, it should sit on top of the wing panel not where it is on your picture, It doesn't look to be a source of rust on mine.