Recent content by reg75

Ok, thanks for all the suggestions everyone. Glad to be part of the forum. Just to finish off, here's what I've learnt. Alternator bench test was absolutely fine. So I disconnected all of the twin battery setup, and ran the alt straight to main battery - bingo, working fine. So, I reckon that...

I get 11.5v on the D+ lamp wire disconnected. This drops to 2v when connected and the warning lamp lights up - is this a bit high? I couldn't get a bulb to light off B+, it doesn't seem to be producing anything. Have taken it back out now, and will try and find an auto electrician to bench test...

Running it disconnected, it only puts out 0.5v - does it need a load on it to start creating voltage in the first place?

I was wrong about the connections. B+ cable goes back to Alternator stud on my "solid state" split charge unit. On a very cursory reading of the internet, I take this to mean that my split charge is a diode unit, which is supposed to prevent flow back from the batteries. But I am reading a...

I think the old alternator just had worn brushes - it spins as free as a yoyo now it's removed. So I decided to upgrade to 100amps by popping in the Disco AMR5425 version - common Defender upgrade apparently. It has the third terminal for the disco rev counter, but I'm not connected to that...

Yes, I have. As best I can work out, I have two big cables running from the battery, one goes +post to alternator, and other goes +post to starter (where I can read the full 12v live feed with the engine off). The charging light wire is attached, and bulb goes out if I disconnect this one.

Hi everyone. I'm very hopeful that someone can help me out, because I'm absolutely stumped with my replacement alternator. When the old one went on the blink, I decided to bolt in a 100amp version - the AMR5425 (with correct serpentine belt, yes). Everyone described it as an easy upgrade. . ...