Ratae's latest activity

This might help: www.v8developments.co.uk/preload.htm

IF - and it's a big IF - the battery is fully charged and in good condition try connecting a jump lead directly from the battery earth terminal to a good clean metal point on the block & see what happens. This would help to rule out a faulty earth.

The link I gave you says the lifters should be empty. They are hydraulic & the engine running (which drives the oil pump) will fill them with oil under pressure. If the oil is not under pressure then you will have no resistance when you press...

Shall see what I can manage, cheers

In the absence of a manual for your system you'll be best tracing all the wires from the alarm & seeing where they go. It's common for many aftermarket systems for at least two of the car's systems to be interrupted by cutting a vehicle wire &...

Sure it's a 720? Googling suggests that's specific to Minis produced from 1976 onwards. How long have you had the car & has it always had this bleep & non-start problem? Have you removed one of the plugs & turned the engine over to see if there...

Your understanding is incorrect - refrigerant charge is done solely by weight, pressure varies in a static system dependent upon temperature and by temperature differential when running. It's possible to achieve the required pressure differential...

Many thanks again for the recent replies guys, much appreciated. Poor close work eyesight & arthritis in my hand leaves me 2 choices (1) ignore the problem & drive on the tacho or ask my local mechanic to check out the cable(s) as a starting...

Sorted ! another speedo cured the problem !!!! anyway thanks to everyone who replied ..

Don't they also require a specific quantity of lubricant? Not sure how you achieve that without an empty & refill of the system with a weighed quantity of oil to avoid lack of lubricant leading to damaging the pump.

same for me !

As it's only under 'moderate to heavy' acceleration or under heavy load another issue could be ignition timing - too advanced - & that's what you're hearing. Be interested to know the result.

You can't ignore the 'ticking & needle bounce' You will have the same setup as my '86 EFi. Suggests an issue with one or both of the cables, the drive gear at the transfer box end, the angle drive gear on the back of the speedo or an internal...

You cannot adjust the standard rocker arms. The cam followers are hydraulic & do this automatically. You can adjust the height of the pillars (pedestals) that the rocker shafts are in. You need to take measurements & then work out the thickness...

As they don't like spending money I doubt they would have bothered if it wasn't necessary & I'm inclined to think it was probably showing up in numbers on vehicles during the warranty period.

The extension was due to changes to the rolling 40 year exemption for vehicle excise duty. An unintended consequence of the change was black & silver plates being able to be displayed on post 1/1/73 vehicles. The latest change stops other than...

Double post.

Check the drive cable from the transfer box to the transducer & the drive cable from the transducer to the speedo drive on the back of the speedometer inside the binnacle. Check that the inner cables (square ends) aren't broken - I suspect that's...

Earlier (LT230 transfer box) like my '86 3.5EFi auto have a two piece speedo cable. Long one comes out of the drive unit on the transfer box & up into the car by the transmission tunnel side of the driver's side footwell. The shorter upper cable...

+1

Just remembered. It blew the fuse on the petrol/LPG changeover - manually switched - as well & that's a 7.5 amp blade fuse. Default position of the relay is petrol & I can't remember which fuel I was on at the probable time it went so it wouldn't...

Blew the fuses for the aftermarket immobiliser & the aftermarket radio/cd player. I've since replaced both items - nothing to do with this issue - & can't remember what fuses they had in. Thoroughly cooked the battery, it swelled up a bit too -...

Appreciate the reply. The procedure you describe is essentially as was followed by old school mechanics on the basis that it set the optimum timing for that particular engine that had covered a good few miles, rather than the factory settings...

Hopefully sorted .. a squirt of releasing fluid, leave to penetrate for a couple of hours & I managed to move the screw, albeit still quite stiff. Got the free idle revs. down to between 850/900 which drops to 500 when Drive selected. Think I'll...

Mine's on LPG & that does work better well advanced BUT I don't have any fancy gizmos to alter it so I've set it as far advanced as I can get on unleaded without pinking. Manual says TDC +/- 1 deg & I'm a little over 6 BTDC. Around 600 rpm in 'D'...

Sorry for not getting back to you before. Presumably the gap between the butterfly & the bore of the plenum chamber is correct - max 0.05mm (0.0002 in) measured at the bottom - & the area is clean? If the gap is too big then effectively you've...

Flapper or Hotwire?

If you have a groove worn into the flange then you'll struggle to get a good leak free seal. Cure is either a new flange - which I did on my '86 - or the appropriate size speedisleeve.

Hey there, Thanks for the great info! Got ya. Yep indeed the later ECU systems do have the rev increase facility. What I am gonna do since I will have them at my disposal, I am gonna put the new alternator and the harness on the Rangie...

Revs dropping as the load on the alternator increases is entirely normal. If the revs drop too far then the ignition light may well illuminate or flicker. If you increase the revs it should go out. The later Classic Range Rover was fitted with a...