Recent content by Rangieman123
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I reckon you will miss the SU's once you fit the strombergs. They're a great carburettor.
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I'd also vote for SU's if you're below 200bhp approx. They give lovely progression especially when off road and throttle sensitivity is important. The Webers don't like steep inclines or declines as the float mechanisms can lead to flooding or leaning out.
What are your expectations on BHP?
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I'm not sure if the Series 3 have them but my Series 2 has a threaded bolt in each pivot pin. From memory they are 1/4 UNF.
I fitted two 90° grease nipples and give them a shot of EP140 gear oil from time to time. I use a small grease gun like those found in the tool kits of vintage cars.
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Have a look at Robush.com
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I've just finished putting an aftermarket bulkhead (Paddocks) onto an older aftermarket chassis (unknown) so all I had were original doors to assist in lining it all up. O/S needed 19mm of washers ahead of the outrigger and N/S needed only 5mm.
These modern aftermarket parts must have zero...
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Are you sure your voltage stabiliser casing is earthed properly? No earth, no function.
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I have used sugar soap to soften paint in the past. Not sure if it's available anymore.
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I've had dozens of various Land Rovers vehicles with V8's in them. For the love of God please don't waste your money on Champion plugs. The quality is terrible in my experience.
I only fit NGK, or Denso.
Get a set NGK BCP6ES for a road car or BCP5ES (like me) for my Land Rover that never sees...
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In an ongoing effort to lighten the pedal in my Series 2 I fitted a bearing to replace the bronze bush in the linkage. I have also converted the hydraulic line to 1/4" courtesy of an adaptor from a Series 3 clutch master cylinder.
These two tweaks have lightened my pedal effort by a third.
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Good Evening,
What model and year is your 90? What engine is it fitted with?
Need info to assist.
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My experience with a Weber was slightly improved fuel consumption but with a reduced top speed. On examination, the Weber's butterfly diameter was noticeably smaller that an original Zenith or earlier Solex. I can't remember the difference in mm as it was years ago. That explains the loss of...
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My tuppenceworth suggests it's circa 1974 onwards, as the earlier blocks had their engine numbers stamped behind the N/S cylinderhead on the bellhousing "hump". It's not a R/R fitment as the alloy carb inlet pipes are pointing lower behind the manifold.
The thermostat housing has the bulb for a...
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Where did you source your Rovergauge cable from? I've been looking for a while and the three pin plastic connector to fit the ECU loom is no longer available.
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The torque converter won't let the engine stall, and I don't see your alternator contributing to your problem.
I'd be examining the power steering pump seeing as its an aftermarket system, and checking the pressure relief valve. Can you take the belt off and test for stalling then?
Is your idle...
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Make sure that the engine stop cable if fully back to its stop on the pump when the dash knob is fully pressed home.