Rangieman123's latest activity

I forgot to mention that I use 20W50 in my vintage grease/oil gun as the EP140 was a bit smelly.....

The rubber outer sleeve on those connectors can be folded or slid back with some workshop spray, but don't try to twist both halves of the connector. Just pull them apart. There's a location groove inside them.

My vote would be either oil on the clutch disk, or a soft/broken engine mount on the front left.

Don't buy an aftermarket amplifier. An OE unit will last a long time. You can buy a cable extension kit to remotely mount it on the inner wing to get it away from the engine heat. I think Discos had these remotely mounted from the factory.

Forget the naysayers here my V8 compadre. Although your ignition amplifier is mounted to the distributor, it still needs a good earth, through its base contact with the distributor. Early amp units had one, (3 wire), and then they changed to two...

It will elongate if you pull it. Maybe splines are a bit tight.

While you have your distributor cap off, make sure your bobweight mechanism for ignition advance is free and working. If its seized or partially seized it will cost you horsepower.

Why did you need to fit HD shafts? Reason being my buddy snapped a rear shaft in a Puma 110 recently, but only moving off from standstill uphill. Not exactly a "tough" shaft..

I've fitted several V8's into Series over the years. The only differences I've seen with starters is the position of the solenoid. Range Rover/SD1 starters have the solenoid mounted to the side and MGB/Morgan V8's have the solenoid mounted below...

A friend of mine used a US company called Vintage Air when he fitted A/C to a vintage car in the past. No harm sending them an e mail.

I've seen this mysterious starting behaviour before. The Landy concerned had two bad segments on the the starter's commutator. This means a lottery when going for a fresh start, as it depends on where the motor stopped rotating the last time it...

Gearbox to engine nuts are 9/16". The top two are either 9/16" or 5/8".

You could try giving Shielder Chassis a call. They're in Armagh. They might be able to assist.

I reckon you will miss the SU's once you fit the strombergs. They're a great carburettor.

I'd also vote for SU's if you're below 200bhp approx. They give lovely progression especially when off road and throttle sensitivity is important. The Webers don't like steep inclines or declines as the float mechanisms can lead to flooding or...

I'm not sure if the Series 3 have them but my Series 2 has a threaded bolt in each pivot pin. From memory they are 1/4 UNF. I fitted two 90° grease nipples and give them a shot of EP140 gear oil from time to time. I use a small grease gun like...

Have a look at Robush.com

I've just finished putting an aftermarket bulkhead (Paddocks) onto an older aftermarket chassis (unknown) so all I had were original doors to assist in lining it all up. O/S needed 19mm of washers ahead of the outrigger and N/S needed only 5mm...

Are you sure your voltage stabiliser casing is earthed properly? No earth, no function.