pwood999's latest activity

None of those show the O2 sensors. As said several times now, emissions depend on O2 Sensors, MAF, Engine speed & Temp, plus Air Leaks and how the trims are behaving. Not got one, but from various forums it appears Thor are much more...

Another thing to try is to use Nanocom Instrument Mode for recordings. Select Instruments & Motronic. Make sure Auto Recording is OFF. Then start the car & enable recording. Here's an example of the recording from one or my P38's. This...

I'm still ignoring this

Well that data shows essentially the same as post #30 above. Both O2 sensors are switching, although Bank-B voltage range is lower than Bank-A. My understanding is this shows the air-fuel ratios are adjusting more on Bank-A, but not sure...

Rather than uploading lots of duplicate pictures that don't show dynamic values, just upload the recording file from Nanocom. Make sure you do the recording at Idle & 2500rpm. Before you upload, change the filename from "xxxxx.csv" to...

BTW, re the thread title, what is "faked" ? or did you mean "failed"

Unless you have O2 sensors after the CAT's (i.e. 2 pre & 2 post), don't bother with the Downstream values. Main focus should be these values: Upstream Bank-A & Bank-B Short term trims Long term trims MAF Throttle & RPM Is the ECU in...

ok. Ignoring . . . .

Pressure test with engine hot & not running ?

Fixed it . . . .but your reply doesn't update

P39?

Yes after you guys pointed it out, I checked RAVE & it does vaguely show the correct orientation. Can I be bothered to remove & refit ?? Hmmm.

Look for “RAVE All Models” version. It’s got lots of Classic RR stuff

Definitely needs more investigation. You must be the only one with a P38 EAS pump that can produce that much pressure.

Definitely P38 and 2001 I started to doubt the pressure gauges but I went to the guy and checked, everything is correct. This explains why the pump had to be repaired so often. In the end, I put a non-original ring on the pump, which I took from...

Still got same job on wife's FL1, so will probably get polys for that !!

+1 on the compressor limit. Even with a gauge directly on the pump outlet, I've never seen more than 190psi. Hence why I asked if it was definitely a P38.

Every time I've tested... maybe on 3 different green pressure valves, they've stopped the compressor at 150psi on the dot. I'd have thought the compressor itself would have given up the ghost by 200psi! I don't know how accurate my pressure...

Yes they look reasonable to me. Voltage difference could either be differences in the sensor tolerances, or maybe slightly different supply voltage due to contact resistance in the connectors. You could try swapping the snsors over to see if...

Yes they are tight. Old bushes are about 49.85mm dia. The arms are about 49.7mm internal, but are about 0.25,, bigger on one side measured with my vernier. New bushes are 50.2mm even after freezing overnight. So heated the arm ends a bit &...

Not sure how 1992 differs from 1995, but here's the later diagram with pin & colour info:

Not sure what the valve block seals will handle, but if it really if getting that high, check the pressure relief valve. It should blow off above 180psi.

Absolutely correct. There are loads of electrical noise sources in cars, hence why the HK Audio uses balanced audio connections & have each amplifier grounded. Most likely that car has corroded connectors in the footwells . . . where the...

Aircraft use quality connectors not the crap tin plate connectors used on P38's. Look at LZ over time and corroded connector's crop up time and again. JLR and their predecessors are only interested in the vehicle surviving for 3 to 5 years what...

The clicking is no doubt the result of corroded connectors somewhere and nothing to do with FMEA checks that cannot possibly show the result of 20 years plus of deterioration.

Yes. Test it first if you can. They are available, but make sure it's the closed above 140psi type. Many are the other way round. I'm guessing you're Estonian ? Put your town name or local region in your profile !!

+1 on that Keith. . . . it will be HEVAC motors, compressor clutch, condensor failure, SRS connector problems, heated seat failure, tired water pump, rusting steel brake lines, overheating fusebox, leaking rear-view mirror, etc, etc. ;)

Having got the arms & new bushes on the bench I tend to agree, but as I already have the new bushes will try them frozen first !!

How had the timing slipped? tensioner/belt etc. How did you lock/tome the crankshaft? Interference engine so anything less than perfect could be bad news.

Black smoke suggests it's getting fuel. Personally, I would do a compression test because if the timing slipped, there may be valve damage. You could try a squirt of Easy Start to see if it will fire.