pwood999's latest activity

Easy to check - just re-plug the RF receiver direct & see if the FOB communicates. Assuming Nanocom is working, clear the RF memory. Then press the fob & read the memory again.

If you have Marty's filter, then you do not need the antenna disconnected . . . . . . but local RF interference will still cause reduced FOB range. At home I have to be with 10 feet of the car, but at work the FOB works 30-40 feet away. FYI...

@MontyChambers did you do the Nanocom check (not while driving) on the two inputs ? No point in replacing the switch unless you're sure it's broke !! The RAVE procedure had a missing bit between 7 & 8. It should be: 7. Extend switch plunger...

You can't change the setting because it's an input. The switch on the pedal frame has two contacts in it. Onbe is normall closed & the other normally open. Therefore both toggle on Inputs screen on the Nanocom when you press the pedal.

You need the both CDL & Keyswitch working to sync the fob. MGF latches are usually cheaper, but make sure you get the version with three microswitches. Rimmers have new LHD drivers latches for £46 which is usually cheaper than second hand on...

Personally, I would do what is needed to remove the remains of the bolt and use a new bolt.

With arms like that the ball joints should be easy.

@kermit_rr the way this saga is going you're get this thread to 42000 in no time !!

When reconnecting the battery, it should resume the same locked-unlocked state it was in when disconnecting. Therefore always disconnect the battery with the car unlocked. Then lock manually using the door buttons if required. Nanocom BECM...

Did you hold the button when closing the window ? The button needs to be held until the "Window Set" appears in the dash message display. Repeat for each window. Note: If the windows or sunroof stick or stall during closing, that can cause...

Check the brake switch using Nanocom. No need to drive around for this. Here's my Wabco-C but the brake switch wiring is the same. Switch-1 should be normally closed, and open when the pedal is pressed. Switch-2 closes when pressing the...

But beware the license expiry. Quite a few reviews on amazon saying it's cheaper to buy a new one than renew the license in the App !!

Nanocom recordings are "usually" in the same order as the screens, i.e. the first four columns are Sensor Voltage, and then columns 5-8 are the Wheel Speeds. Values 9-12 are Inlet Valves, and 13-16 the Outlet Valves. I thought the two brake...

Wrong I know, but I used compressed air to find leaks in mine many years back. Replaced condenser & dryer after which it was great for 3-4 years. Then got the slow leak problem. Eventually traced to the spindle seal on the compressor, which...

More likely the contacts were corroded, and pulling & re-inserting did the trick. Best clean them thoroughly to prevent future issues. Has it been stored or used in a damp environment ?

3, 13 & 15 in the picture below:

Are you checking both sides of each fuse ? There needs to be 12V passing through the fuse !! Another simple check is to try opening & closing windows with Nanocom (you have bought one I hope ??)

@John_l_k I agree with other that you probably don't need locking nuts. Try this one if you really want them https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/kbm100450-locking-nut-for-wheels-56-code-a.html

+1 on this, especially if the lens has been leaking rain.

They will should be easy to see just before & usually nothing after the cats (unless it's a US Import).

And BTW, most P38 only have two O2 sensors as far as I know, so check before someone charges you for four of them !!

Always worth having a refurb kit just in case. That way if it fails one day, you can refurn in the evening, and have the car going ready for the next day !! As Keith says, excessive vibration is usually one or two of the rubber mounts failed.

Never had any success with that methond on any car. 2 person method for me is: 1) open bleed valve & assistant pushes pedal steadily to floor & hold. 2) close bleed valve & assistant releases pedal. 3) repeat 1 & 2 until no bubbles on fluid...

This what what Marty posted on the Nanocom forum. As of July 2024 there was no update from BBS. ==================================== Had a look at a couple of P38's with ABS problems, which have both turned out to be the wheel speed sensor...

I always thought this bit "sunroof, fully open, full close, fully tilt and fully close again", should actually be "sunroof, fully open, full close, fully tilt and hold until sunroof set message".

Richard_G on rangerovers.net describes it in this post. https://www.rangerovers.net/posts/2460153/

Always undo the filler plug first is good practice. Don’t wanna drop it just to find out filler won’t come out for some reason.

Post by Montyjohn

@Frank_38 depends where you're based. If outside the EU, check your local exchange rates & make sure you select the "without VAT" option. Also which engine type ? GEMS & EDC are £40 more expensive than Thor Motronic ?? For example...