pwood999's latest activity

+1 on this "read the code in the EDC and write it to the BECM."

If the dash is not asking for the EKA code then I doubt it's that. As Brian said, needs a security re-learn, read the code in the EDC and write it to the BECM.

Find something to hold the clutch from rotating & release centre nut or bolt. Then wriggle the clutch a bit & it should come off.

You need to measure at the battery rather than using diagnostics.

There are people out there than can do replacement keys & fobs. My son had a guy based in Bedford that programmed a FoB & spare keys for his 2004 FL1 TD4.

If it's a "temporary import for repair", then you should normally get the duties back when it leaves the UK again. Same with VAT. Had the same thing a few years back shipping Motorola demo kit to various non-EU countries. It a case of getting...

If he wants £500 for a £300 hub, then he's either ripping you off, or got a good discount on a genuine LR one ??

Hard to correlate. With the engine is running the EAS should see the charging voltage, unless there's some voltage drop between the fusebox & the EAS. Keith's capacitor mod should remove any spikes & glitches on the 12V supply. On mine...

+1 the dash always beeps & displays the message when connecting EAS diagnostics. Same applies to Nanocom & EASunlock software. Always use either the "Stop" button in EASunlock, or exit the menus on Nanocom before disconnecting the cable.

Could also be intermittent connection in the pins & sockets inside the connector between driver pack & solenoids. The fix is to de-pin them one at a time & gently squeeze the sockets so they grip the pins properly. But do the capacitor mod...

RAVE Manuals have all the diagrams, wire colours & pin numbers..

Diff rubbing noise is more likely the mounts. Never heard a diff making a rubbing noise . . . . usually it's a whine.

Surely if you put schrader valves on the airlines to the airsprings, then there was no point where there could be a "leak in a part of the system common to all springs". Or did you use t-pieces & retain the valve block connections ?

Dunno if it's me, but I can't see much except a batmobile ??

The locking works because triggering the button microswitch (i.e. CDL switch) makes the BECM thinks you're inside the car & want all the doors to lock. Conversely when unlocking using the button, the mod makes the BECM think you want to unlock...

And a link to the YouTube video would be good

These notches. Two at front of block & two at the back.

Depends what gaskets you use. Good quality have sealant around the coolant passages. Cheap usually don't. Cant remember if I used any on the head gaskets, but definitely did around the coolant passages on both top & bottom of the valley gasket.

The original video must be out there somewhere ?

Check your heater matrix for leaks. Even a slow drip over time could cause that.

From the pictures it looks like surface rust. Clean it up & see if you can see light through it ? Then seal any gaps & paint with Hammerite - Kurust. Underneath lots of underseal might work. But before all that you need to figure out...

If you're gonna weld new metal in, then the carpets & underlay need to come out. If you can clean up the rust & seal any gaps, then it's possible to dry it out in situ. I had a heater matrix fail back in Nov 2023 (on the way to MOT). After...

Wipe out any fluids first, and then vacuum all the loose debris, especially around the piston rings. Check all the core plugs for rust & signs of leaks.

Didn’t realise if a leftie. Now we know.

Just take the centre dash panel out & sort it properly. Takes about 10mins to get side panels off, lower panel under steering wheel, & release the 4 screws for HEVAC panel, plus slide the radio out. Then you can unscrew the centre dash &...

Sunroof drains - one at each corner. The pipes go down the A & C pillars, and exit into the outside wheelarches. Could also be doorseals, roof gutters leaking, etc.

No it's not the switch. It's most likely the lack of pressure. Like i said before

Unfortunately, it can be coincidence, just had 2 unrelated problems on one of my P38's Either the accumulator is knackered or the pressure switch is opening before the correct pressure has been reached. My money is on the accumulator.

Probably unscrew the plastic trim on the top of the tailgate. The screws should be behind the internal trim.

Nearest imperial size is 1/2". BES do them, inluding 15mm to 1/2" converters.