pwood999's latest activity

Depends if you have LPG available near you, and if you want to use it. My project P38 has LPG, so I re-installed everything, but have only run it on petrol so far. Put the injectors & wiring in, so I didn't have to block the manifold ports...

+1 on should not have turned it over. Should have at least installed the push-rods & rockers. Then you could have checked compression !!

What is siezed ? Is it the pulley or the tensioner ? Have a look at this thread about removal. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/replacing-auxiliary-belt-tensioner-pulley.307687/

Are there any "additions" to the GEMS ECU or the wiring to it ? Someone may have re-programmed the ROM in it & messed it up ? Otherwise you probably have two options: 1) replace the ECU & do the sucurity re-learn. Not sure if iCarsoft V2 can...

Don't forget the air underneath the pistons also has to go somewhere.

Not got the correct version of RAVE here at moment, but check your other thread.

There's a section in RAVE that shows how the tensioner comes out. I had the same problem on my wifes FL1 TD4. If I remember correctly you can remove the engine mount & jack the engine enough to remove it but cannot be sure. with the engine in...

Nope. Should have metioned drop links, track rod ends & lower balljoints also all done recently. The noise sounds exactly like a failing CV, but there's no play.

We changed both front wheel bearings & driveshafts including CV joints recently on Son's 2004 FL1. All seemed good, but it still has a knocking noise on sharp corners. The VCU seems ok and not siezed (or wasn't a month ago). Wondering if...

Next time on rear brakes, slacken the adjuster first. Then after re-assembly, adjust the shoes up as required !! Well done on getting MOT though.

Those two fault codes are listed in this thread. (was a google search, not forum search !! ) C1154 Historical CAN Signal engine speed error C1148 Historical No Can message from engine ECU But also found these descriptions on another forum, so...

My vacuum thingy worked for re-filling the rear brake pipes after replacement, but agreed definitely useless for bleeding. It useful for filling the coolant though.

I found that with some Amazon links as well. Strange.

Is the fuel pump working properly ? Also is the tank & fuel clean. Doesn't take much debris to block the float valve. SU carbs are so simple you should be able to strip, clean & rebuild them yourself. Had many non LR cars with them years...

Perhaps it's had moisture in the fluid in its past life, and corroded the pipework somewhere ? I know it'sa pain, but consider a full fluid flush through with a pressure bleeder ? Should help shift any crud getting stuck in pipe fittings ?

Now there's a line I haven't heard for a long while.

It was Marty on the Nanocom forums. I haven't found any mention of a fix from BBS either on the forums or in release notes.

A bit of sarcasm never hurt anyone - lighten up. Both my P38's have it replaced with flexible 8mm coolant hose. Works perfectly & less failure points. But if you search for the correct part you might find this:

Like these ??

This is from rangerovers.net :- (similar issue on 2006 RR sport) U0102-87 is a communications error with the Transfer case, not the Transmission. From the workshop manual; U0102-87 Lost Communication with Transfer Case Control Module - missing...

According to the manuals I have, 2003 onwards uses Fuse 37 in passenger fusebox for transfer neutral and this should display on the dash. The 2008 handbook just says to select Neutral on the transmission & make sure ignition is in position 1...

In case it helps others, the belt tensioner is much easier with flat non-angled ring spanners. These sets are around £35 and work well for tensioners on both TD4 and my P38. No need for extensions as thye have plenty of leverage. Also because...

I have this version of RAVE. It has workshop sections for 1995 onwards, and 1987-1993 NAS. The NAS transfer box section incldes details of speedo cable rather than transducer. Electrical section is 1995 onwards, so only mentions the sensor...

Exactly. These over-complicated excessive ECU cars need the relevant ECU's talking. @dave7494 you should look at the U0102 & B1a98 errors. The gearbox is probably busy sitting waiting to be told what to do, regardless of the cable position !!

We used the stuff from Martrim. £67 for the material & 3 cans of adhesive, plus £18 shipping. They supply enough for the A/B/C pillars as well, but didn't bother as the plastic matched the new cloth...

Surely it's not an "existing fault" until it happens ? If they were part of an LR recall, then sure the insurance company would say it's LR's problem. Gotta read the small print & buyer beware.

Whatever fits will be fine. As far as power handling, most modern 4ohm speakers will work. You can pretty much ignore the advertised 300W type ratings, because (1) they would probably melt with that much real power, and (2) the HK amps are...

You can use pretty much any 6.5" bass drivers for the doors. I used these Pyle bass drivers in mine. For the midrange, something like these coaxial (if your ears are old),, or these non coaxial. The yellow ones will be louder for the same...

In that case, either the magnet is corroded and locking the cone in place, or the coil varnish is cooked (too much excessive volume) and binding in the magnet. Best thing is to bite the bullet and replace with modern poly cone speakers. They...

Good info here: https://www.stockholmviews.com/p38/index.html#audio I need to do the tweeters in mine as well !!