I hear that a lot - but ageing parents is one thing, and the other is that life here isn't all safaris and sunsets; there is a lot that doesn't get published in the news, which is very, very tough. Everywhere seems a bit broken at the moment, so...
That's how my setup is at the moment.
Would be nice to replace the mechanical pump but then you have the timing to consider if you remove the mechanical pump. Shorter belt? Idler pully? Seems a bit of a headache unless you leave the mech pump in...
Correct. 4psi is the max pressure the pump can make against a dead head. It ticks away for a few seconds just before starting the engine then stops. I never hear it when the engines running. Makes bleeding the fuel system a doddle too. I fit 1/8"...
The quality of everything is getting worse. That's not a cynical opinion, it's a fact documented by consumer watchdogs, vloggers, bloggers, and the media. So it wouldn't surprise me if the quality of modern diesel pumps is now crap.
So no diesel...
Kumho AT52. Much quieter than the mud pluggers the last own had on mine. Wearing very well. Good in the dry and wet. Only driven on grass and gravel as "offroading" goes and they were absolutely fine.
No matter which anti corrosion system you use none are a do once thing, depending on the use of vehicle, where you live it is a repeat job. I live by the sea and mine is a working farm truck, gets a good underside wash/dry then respray with...
I suppose the only real way is check your impeller against an original and see if they differ. From what I've seen it's the angle of the vanes that get's the whistle. Alternatively, take it to a turbo specialist and see what they say.
You can actually buy aftermarket impellers specifically to get a whistle. Quite the thing in the US pickup community
Check your impeller isn't chipped or bent, maybe? That seems to be where it originates from.
If it was a mechanical diesel; isuzu, 200tdi, etc, I wouldn't worry about it. A TD5 and later aren't as robust. I'd be inclined to follow miktdish's idea. Drain some and top up.
injector/pump seals are fine, they'll be nitrile or viton.
Some use what miktdish posted. I prefer a wire wheel on an angle grinder
https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-multi-material-wire-wheel-brush-100mm-3-93-/239PR?tc=AB8&gStoreCode=AB8&gQT=1
I know you cant take the body off to check some of those...
I saw the dented bonnet stiffener...put 2 and 2 together and thought the top of the engine was an interefence fit without the dents.
I will offer it all up and see - thanks for the advice. Knowing this is priceless.
Odd, as my Isuzu 2.8 sits fine without modding the bonnet. I fitted the top mount intercooler and it still missed the bonnet, though I cut a hole anyway for the bonnet scoop.
If they are insuring trailers again then I am amazed.
I left NFU cos they stopped insuring trailers a while back now.
National Farmers Union, and they wouldn't insure a farmer's trailer. FFS!
How do you know you're down on power? Because it's noticable, or because a Rolling Road told you?
If a RR told you it was 190, did the exact same RR tell you it's now 160? You can get VASTLY different results from RR to RR.