P38 Monkey's latest activity

Yep, you just keep on repairing and suffering a poor design, badly assembled from shoddy components. I’ll go for the evolutionary improvement approach. My simplified P38 runs superbly with its top-hat engine, coil springs, and needs minimal...

Coil springs and dampers get rid of all those space-hopper problems. Classic Ferraris (and my P38) have them, so can’t be all bad. Or let the nightmare roll on. Your call.

I've probably repaired 30+ switchpacks now. I did 7 of them the other week, and have another 3 or 4 sitting in a pile here waiting for me to get the enthusiasm to pull them apart... I take the switch contacts off the board, only because I've...

You go your way, I'll go mine, the discs are supposed to be free under the plastic. I have had hundreds of keyboards manufactured using this type of switch for my industrial control systems. In addition dust and other contaminants will stick to...

I find that if you have to remove a switch pack to clean the contacts. After removing switch pack, you cut away the plastic film holding the contacts in place around the area of the switch pack then remove and clean contact points on board and...

P38 window switch pack repairs. The switch pack is held in by 2 screws at the top, visible when the cubby lid is opened. With the screws undone the pack lifts up and out, there is just one electrical connector to disconnect. The interesting bit...

I just used both hands to grip it, gave it a slight pull, felt it give bit, then with firm but not too violent pull it popped out, maybe I was lucky but, mine was black plastic it didn't have wood veneer over it and, I could see it was a seperate...

That sounds too easy to be true. How do you “pop” it? Take the small panel (front lower edge of cubby) off first? Then where are the cubby catches that hold it in place? Thanks…

I replaced the bulb with an ultra bright red LED.

You could use some light grease in a spray can and straw attachment. Saves pulling the unit out and risk cracking the little plastic aged fixings 👌

Sorry....

The lock button only moves the small white lever to lock & unlock the latch. The cable for the inside handle and the outside handle both move the unlatching mechanism. Best bet would be to get another latch & understand how it works first...

Suppose that makes sense, front airbags were rated for a 10 year life (15 year side airbags). I can't imagine anyone ever had them replaced so even the youngest are looking at 23 years old.

It’s just the BeCM keeping you on your toes.

Well that foxed me.. for a while. Yesterday got a fob battery low message. So i swapped the battery from the other fob. Same message!! Put this good battery back in to the fob i took it from.. no message. Check the voltage.. 3.0v so ok.. the...

I did a cross-reference. Important to get the bonnet ones right as there are three variants and not all makes (eg QH) have all types. Locking or not, and under-bonnet pad or not. Centre console is neutral on lifting but somehow a lot easier...

We're these p38 struts from the likes of rimmers/island 4x4 etc or did you source them using cross referencing? I fitted a new centre console strut which made it better but still needs a lift to open(that might be normal?) and tailgate struts...

Personally, I would never trust an olive on flexible hose.

Just had that problem when I went to set the windows after my flat battery incident, window went down but not up so used Faultmate to close it.

Replaced all 6 gas struts, with good quality Stabilus ones. Having not owned a P38 before, everything seemed heavy and clunky. Glove box just crashing open etc. Now with new struts front, rear and interior, everything works beautifully.

Passenger front and rear windows decided not to work yesterday. Switchpack out and a clean of the contacts and all good again.

Thanks, that makes sense. It looks like, as you say, if you take off the interior trim cover over the wiper motor that should reveal fixing screws, Will wait for warmer weather!

Stereo slot access needs fingers like ET. Clips are too firm to get a blade in. I thumped the clock, as per other postings here - the light came on - sorted…! I am learning the LR way of fixing things: I kept getting an alarm that screenwash...

+1 on thumping it Landy-style. The light came on. Unbelievable.

I am missing something here - there is a scant 10mm clearance to the fairing above the cap. How on earth do you raise the cap enough to get at the nut, and even then you can’t get an extractor onto the arm. I’ll leave it in place and clean up as...

Pretty sure I just popped my clock out using feeler guages or maybe accessed via the stereo slot. It was a long tine ago though.

I’ll leave well alone, move the arm to vertical position, and tidy up the bits i can then reach (which is most of the arm). It’s one of those mysteriously inaccessible items on Planet P38, like changing the clock bulb. Now that one really is the...

Ratchet ring spanner perhaps? Sometimes helps to press down where the hinge is after removing the nut to take the tension off the wiper and allow it to wiggle off the spindle.

So it is. Page 150. But still no practical info on how to remove the arm. So how do you do that?

That's OK for changing the blade, not sure it helps for removing the arm though.