Recent content by mystery
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I'm not sure if the motor is controlled by PWM (pulse width modulation) if so this would put the control voltage signal at 5volt halfwave but going by the diagram i would say this is not the case . so with the motor disconnected ground the terminals 2 and 3(this will eliminate a faulty lock...
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because it's a motor and gearing I do believe the repair kits contain a gear wheel etc https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386837594653
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there would be a tiny printed circuit board holding the motor and possible the latch micro switch in the lock mechanism ,the CEM would be a partial printed circuit board containing the Field effect transistors and relays .
Try running ground from negative terminal of battery to pin 2 and 3...
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when you are testing the lock are you latching the mechanism closed to simulate the tail gate shut and then apply 12volt on pin 1 and ground pin two ( the same reading of 15ohms 1to 3 and 1to 2 would suggest the micro switch is closed in the lock mechanism and judging by the diagram this allows...
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Pictures assuming they are of the latch connector ,so to unlock you would connect 12volts to pin 1 white/orange and earth to pin 2 .do not have the connection manual for FL2 so if anyone has could they post a link for it etc .
I would check that the connector does actually contact the pins as...
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any pict's of said connector
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pays to check where crimp lugs attach to cable as well as where the lug contacts the body ( usually large deposits of green sulphate is a good warning sign of future problems)
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Have the relevant bracket been fitted
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the problem with led units that are fitted in original lamp holder that rely on the bayonets for connection is that the current drawn is so small that when the contact point oxidise and the led then is unable to draw current through the oxidised layer on the bayonet and then stops working...
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and those two sized screws were ? for the benefit of others