mystery's latest activity

Depends what generation, I thought they liked to split in half where the water runs down between the cab and the bed and rusts the chassis away at that point :eek:

I'm not sure if the motor is controlled by PWM (pulse width modulation) if so this would put the control voltage signal at 5volt halfwave but going by the diagram i would say this is not the case . so with the motor disconnected ground the...

Try

because it's a motor and gearing I do believe the repair kits contain a gear wheel etc https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386837594653

there would be a tiny printed circuit board holding the motor and possible the latch micro switch in the lock mechanism ,the CEM would be a partial printed circuit board containing the Field effect transistors and relays . Try running ground...

when you are testing the lock are you latching the mechanism closed to simulate the tail gate shut and then apply 12volt on pin 1 and ground pin two ( the same reading of 15ohms 1to 3 and 1to 2 would suggest the micro switch is closed in the lock...

Pictures assuming they are of the latch connector ,so to unlock you would connect 12volts to pin 1 white/orange and earth to pin 2 .do not have the connection manual for FL2 so if anyone has could they post a link for it etc . I would check that...

any pict's of said connector

may help

try

pays to check where crimp lugs attach to cable as well as where the lug contacts the body ( usually large deposits of green sulphate is a good warning sign of future problems)

Fitting a hidden but accessible manual isolator is one thing, but an automatic isolator on a car that relies on electronics?

Have the relevant bracket been fitted

the problem with led units that are fitted in original lamp holder that rely on the bayonets for connection is that the current drawn is so small that when the contact point oxidise and the led then is unable to draw current through the oxidised...

the cable is the AERIAL

3BA on sender then 6-40

and those two sized screws were ? for the benefit of others

have you checked the ignition switch feed voltage to eliminate the switch it's self

for the R.R 14cux but may help

Jeez, who bloody designs this crap🤯 Certainly those who don't work on them... But then, once it's out of guarantee..... who cares😵‍💫

TV's Mythbusters proved it is possible to polish a turd, but a turd is still a turd even if there is a shine on the outside. Checking and sorting any issues with chassis, bulkhead and running gear is what should come first.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/316874885966?chn=ps&_ul=GB&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A140m2AI-DREiRHkCu_wV-zw13&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=316874885966&targetid=2360873003490&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=...

take a look

try

any images of the battery connections main earth cable and the starter motor and alternator connections .have you checked the output voltage on the alternator main connection and then on the starter motor main connection and then the battery

AERIAL

on the rebuild was a discovery harness used for the engine connections utilizing the bulkhead plug etc and spliced into the original body harness or the whole vehicle TD5 harness used

have you adjusted the lumbar position to support your back

what year and when was the engine fitted as you say it's a 110 and not a td5 defender as this affects the wiring

worth a read