It does sound like heat is the issue, vapour lock?
The weber carb kit comes with an inline fuel filter which sits directly over the manifold. If you have one I'd remove it even just fir safety reasons.
1. Check fuel tank isn't rotting from...
Realistically for the cost of the parts I'd just be doing the whole igition system... points, condenser, cap, leads, coil and plugs.
Also if you do have to dig into the carb I have some scans from a haynes manual for the Weber 32/34 DMTL...
Yes idling/revving fine but dying under load is classic condenser failure. I'd be replacing this as a matter of course
It could also be a blocked jet in the carb - does it suddenly pick up again if you pull the choke out?
I was told a blocked jet in carb was one of the suspected culprits of its acceleration issues when I purchased it so will add that to my lousy of things to check this weekend.
After you have driven it and it has played up have a feel of the ignition coil. If hot likely as @Wildefalcon says above it is breaking down. Also as @kermit_rr post replace the points and condenser.
Do you have a Temperature gauge fitted?
Yes still has a fan and cowl. I purchased it from Ike at pangolin 4x4 so I know it’s been driven/cared for but it has been sitting for the last year or two I believe.
I’ll start working down the list
Check all and replace the fuel system.
Check all and replace the coolant system.
Does it still have a fan and cowl on the engine?
Check all and replace the ignition system.
Chances are no one has looked after it properly for years, you don't...
Hello everyone!
I just recently purchased a 1962 Land Rover Series 2A. When i make quick .5 miles rides to the store and back its fine BUT if i drive further distances (maybe a mile or 2) and it requires going into 3rd or 4th gear and starts to...