Recent content by Maturecheese

I have just replaced the diesel fuel filter (the one in the engine bay TD4), it is the screw on type like an oil filter) and the next day the fuel pump went kaput. Now the wiring isn't too clever, courtesy of a previous owner, and there was some evidence of heat on the connectors to the pump...

Update Just turned into my street and it conks out. Turns out now that the fuel pump has given up the ghost. I took it off and put 12v to it and it just makes a slight clunk. Happy days hey? when I need it sorted by Friday for a caravan weekend. frantic two days coming up!

I had a slight fuel leak and so I thought it would be a good time to change the fuel filter at the same time. The pipes leading to the pump are old and brittle so I will need to replace those but for now I just cut them back a touch. Still a slight leak I think though it's hard to tell as will...

I have found the cause of the problem. The circlip was fine it was the sleeve that it holds in place that was the problem. It has two bent in tabs that stop the push rod from coming out and one of them has snapped.

I have a feeling that it's going to need replacing but the annoying part about it is that it is not that old. I had to replace it 12 months ago as the previous master cylinder was buggered.

As I have previously explained in another post my clutch pedal was to high. Anyway the cause of this seems to be the fact that the push rod is not being held in its proper position within the master cylinder. I have now removed the master cylinder from the bulkhead and the pushrod has come...

Ah at last an explanation of why my clutch pedal is up too high.:) For now to deal with it I have shaped a square piece of wood to fit the square hole where some useless brake switch sensor goes ( this doesn't appear to do anything) and that stops the excess travel of the clutch pedal...

Thanks for the info I appreciate it. I'm hoping my local scrappy might have one on the petrol Freelander he has up there although it is probably a nightmare to get it off in one piece due to it's location. If that fails your info will come in handy.

This has broken on my freelander (it happened today and the black part was on the mat at my feet in the footwell) leading to the clutch pedal being a lot higher than it should be. This is a sensor of some kind and the clutch pedal rests on it at the right height. It is located in a square hole...

teddywood1 Thanks for the tip. Finding a scrap one local will be a bit of a bind as all the local scrappies have just about gone.

Sorry my mistake It's the engine warning light that stays on if this wire is detached. There doesn't appear to be any ill effect though but all the same I prefer the wire attached so that the light goes out as it should. A new plug/connector would help.

I have a problem with the three pin electrical connector/plug that goes on to the fuel filter housing under the bonnet. One of the wires became detached and I had to solder it back on. With this wire detached the pump light stays lit on the dash. My soldering is not the best so I don't hold...

I still haven't got around to doing anything about the fob but an interesting phenomena has arisen. If I remove the battery (it's a new battery) and then after around 30 seconds replace it the fob then works properly for a while. By the next morning though it has stopped working until the...

The other day my fob stopped working and upon inspection one of the three legs of the battery holder was snapped. I have managed to solder it for now but it is strictly temporary. Also since doing that the red alarm light flashes continuously unless the unlock button is pressed again when...

Yes thank you I'm very relieved :D, and probably more to the point, my wife is a lot happier :). As for the swarf mentioned earlier, I used copious amounts of grease when I was drilling to make the swarf stick to it instead of falling in the unit. I also fished around with the magnet and got...