Mark Piercy's latest activity

Well the news is in & its the timing chain. How much of a faff is that?

Just until red with a gas blowlamp.

Good piint, didn't think of that! At what temperature, and how?

You may need to anneal the end of the tube before flaring to avoid the pipe splitting.

These flair tools work very well, mine came with some nuts as well...

Thanks folks, so I'll get a flanging tool, some copper-nickel tubing and all necessary fittings. A man needs something to do during the next winter! By the current rate, I'll do the cylinder heads myself next year! 😳

Don't know what the classc pipe routing is like, but I did the rear pipes on both my P38's. Roll of copper-nickel pipe, fittings & flaring tool. Hardest part was feeding the L-R pipe over the rear crossmember. The P38 have a joint behind...

Use CUNIC for the pipes, it's pretty cheap and easy to make the pipes up, I have had to replace the rear pipes on my P38.

I'd say wheel bearing retainer. I'd get that checked asap🤔

when i pressed out the bearing on my front hub instead of the hub being pressed through the bearing it pressed out the circlip and thats when it started to get hard as i could not get anything between the bearing and the hub to press it out and...

that looks like the circlip that holds the hub bearing in the front or rear hub housing are you sure the scaping noise is not a wheel bearing colasped and the brake disc rubbing on the caliper bolts

Small contact as said is ignition, then a heavy duty live from the battery to the bolt with no wire currently attached, earth is from the motor frame.

😝

Just an update, the o rings were the problem I replaced them all ,left it in off-road height overnight with F44 fuse removed, hasn't dropped a millimeter. I must thank everyone for there help.

If it doesn't explode that's a win in my book.

Ahh, you're no fun Keith, makes for great excitement when you turn the key :) :)

Swapping things without good reason can lead to more problems. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I have a spare pressure switch that I have decided to fit out of precaution. I have depinned connectors before but does it matter which wire goes where?

Nope. either way round.

I would say almost without a doubt that is my issue ,if not then it's a big part of it

That could leak ............... :) :)

Just found this, o ring must have got trapped and ripped Ive found one ripped and two more crushed.

That's sound like a plan , not to worry I asked it really nicely with a hammer and it's now off

That's usually the stud turning in the plastic housing. I replaced one with an allen bolt, so I can hold it from underneath while tightening the nut.

Bollocks😭, and to make this even better , one of the threads on the air compressor mountings have stripped so now I can't get the compressor out.😅

eer yes, lots of it. Without the spring, the compressor will be all that's holding air in the bags !!

They should sit on the slightly larger section of the tube, resting against the flange. Then make sure they seat into the recess in the valve body top half. Stem should seat like this (not my fingers. They are PaulP38's)

Why would you be thinking of replacing the solenoids? If leaking it will only be the O rings. Are you talking about the coils or the actual valves?

Most likely it's one of the two o-rings on the bottom of the valve, or the thin o-ring around the plunger body. i.e. one of these three :

I stopped having it a long while back as I was always ill afterwards. This proved to be a link to my Guillain - Barre syndrome