Recent content by mad85

thanks, found the correct line, however i will have a go and replace the connector only... we ll see. For anyone needing the info, the ID is 6mm. I also found this: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/fuel-line-quick-connect-broken.391969/ this is exactly what happened to me and as it...

mine is a later one but i cant find the fuel pipes for sale

the clip of the fuel pipe coming from the rear to the fuel pressure regulator is coming loose and not clipping properly. I have temporarily used a tie clip to make it home but i would like to replace the hose or at least the clip. anyone knows the size that i should look for? also any tips to...

i have a fuel pressure gauge which all of a sudden is showing 10bar pressure (used to be around 4.5Bar at idle). I suspect (and hope) it is a fault pressure sensor and i will be replacing that first but curious to know what other problems my cause something like this? engine feels fine

bearing is usually different, G one has Rubber ending while the cheap sh*t has metal shield which allows dirt in a lot more easily

A bit of both. Rubber is shot and i would like to treat the top part of the chassis while i have a bit of access

Some of the body mounts look a bit tired, is it possible to replace without the big jack? Any inspirational pics?

Thanks, no oil there though. When i had the misfire i did unplug and replug a couple of plugs, including the red ecu one

Im currently on an overlanding trip and checking the fault codes i saw injector open circuit errors for all injectors as well as another open circuit error related to air temperature. I dont have any obvious issues and only checked cause i had random three amigos come up (no error logged for...

They are tight to push into the axle

In my case the Nak seals solved the issue. They are much tighter fit so prepare to fight them to get in place

you mean downgrade to an electric fan? the clutch fan is far superior in terms of cooling

hi guys, not strictly a Discovery question - trying to fit an ashcroft locker to my rear diff. trying to set the backlash,but the crown wheel gets jammed (actually more like there is a lot of preload!) as soon as i torque the end cap bolts. i suspect maybe im not fitting the bearing race...

by the way, to bleed the clutch easily use a vacuum pum like this: vacuum pump the important thing is to use a jubilee clip to seal the hose to the nipple and to put generous amount of silicon grease around the threads. it will bleed in a few pumps.

i suspect the metal piece that came out is half of a snap ring that was once lost when the yoke bush self destructed... who knows where the rest is? couple of days a go i replace master and slave cylinders and gear changes are back to normal. case closed (until its reopened)