Recent content by luxinterior67
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
-
L
Thanks everyone for views and the other ways of protection. I think I'm probably going to have to delay till next summer then, and rely on keeping the underside clean. What I will do though is give the rear subframe a good wirebrushing get some bonda primer on it, and then some chassis black...
-
L
right enough , the front part of the chassis is covered in a nice protective coating of oil. Looks like the oil filter has been leaking in the past.
I know I should do it properly but there's no way I've got time without sending the kids to a very very cheap boarding school
-
L
Morning, now that I've got the starter working and replaced the clutch hydraulics I'm starting to think about winter. Maybe I'm a bit paranoid but we do get a lot of road salt fired down in darkest Lanarkshire and my 17 year old F1 rear chassis is showing quite a lot of surface rust...at least I...
-
L
Sounds like mine is well seized then ,it's free initially ( without doing anything ) and then no movement at all. I take it a thump with a big hammer isn't recommended
-
L
Evening, in typical Freelander fashion my clutch slave cylinder has blown itself apart ( L series diesel). . I've ordered new clutch hydraulics but until it arrives I thought I'd try to free up the seized release arm. I've scooshed it with penetrating oil and tried to trickle some light oil in...
-
L
I'll need to speak nicely to her indoors, she's already banned any chainsaw purchase, I can't see her taking kindly to a mig welder suddenly appearing. Seriously though, I did see a local college doing a basic welding evening class, wasn't much cash.
-
L
Replaced the drivers side drop link. Had to take the angle grinder out to get the lower nut and a nut splitter for the top one. What a difference, super smooth now. Unfortunately I also noticed the ARB is wandering about and had been up against the strut at some point. That'll explain the...
-
L
Yup, I reckon they don't need balancing cause theirs no wobble from the steering wheel which funnily enough I do get with the quiet tyres on the front. I'll fire the spare on the front and see what difference that makes, it's a brand new Insa Turbo ranger.
-
L
I've had this rumble noise from the rear of my 2wd L series Freelander. I'd been getting more and more worried, thinking diff or wheel bearing. I thought I'd just try swapping the tyres back to front as I remember my dads old cortina having a dodgy tyre once back in the 70's and there being...
-
L
Evening, can anyone recommend a car cover that fits well over a Freelander 1. Just thinking about getting one before winter. The Freelander isn't used every day so should I get a breathable cover?
-
L
Hi, this thread might help you. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/clutch-biting-point.72246//
There's a link further down to a youtube video of a repair to the slave cylinder bracket. I'm sure I've also seen another post of a geezer that shored up the bracket before it broke with threaded...
-
L
Hi, brilliant, thanks for the info. By some miracle it looks like I have indeed managed to route the new belt correctly.
Can you tell me what the name of the Rave .pdf file is for the L Series?
-
L
Hi, has anyone got a diagram of the aux belt routing on an l Series diesel ( with aircon). I've got the Rave CD but the files I've looked at are for the TD4. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-
L
hi, I know this has been covered before but.....I've broken the lip off the edge of the battery and sawed the head off the battery clamp bolt, but.... how do I get rid of the broken stub of the clamp bolt. Do I just smack it through the base of the battery tray with a chisel and hammer, cheers.
-
L
Hi, a local garage reckoned it was the rear subframe causing the clunk. I've found another 4 wheel drive specialist garage who'll sort it by going thru a whole in the boot floor, this seems to be the way to sort it.