Take all the financials out of it because what ever you put in you most likely wont get back ever, even if they do appreciate, so do you love it and want to keep it forever? If so, keep it, do what’s required and never get rid of it. Not sure if...
I suppose it is because the exhaust gases squeezing through the narrow gap between where it has warped and the head make the noise.
If you are worried about this, look at it and you should be able to see soot marks where it is happening. Sadly...
+1^ to all of the above.
I too had to do it.
IF you can get it off intact, i.e bolt/stud holes, threads etc , then do take it off skim it and cut all the webbing away.
I had to use left hand drill bits etc etc, and still ended up having to do...
All of which have potential to go wrong, unfortunately.
It's a job I would try and avoid if possible, ok you're not going to do it for the sake of it but you know what I mean.
FYI for anyone not done it and curious, if bolt snaps in head and you can’t get molegrips on it to twist it. Your choices are, stud/bolt extractor set, drill a pilot hole in the bolt and use the extractor head which should hopefully unscrew the...
Probably just skimmed and dewebbed, unless you got the cash to get something custom and I’ve only seen like 1 custom and was for a v8 though. You could get one on ebay for £300 and was an exchange arrangement. I did it a year ago and it was 190...
Can’t find a video but green goes to the FPR in the engine bay, the pipe connects from fuel pump to the main length of fuel line that runs along the chassis, connector is on top of chassis between fuel filter and body mount if I remember...
I am still surprised at the number of D1 s I see over here. D2s are much rarer. But then it is warm and dry a lot of the time and any car over 20 years old doesn't have to pass their MOT!
A girl I shared a house with in Devon, who ended up with first in mechanical engineering explained to me how humid conditions lead to a better burn. I had a car with an SU carb at the time which always ran better in such conditions as you...
It's probably the green fuel pipe which rubs against the wiring loom for the pump. Known TD5 issue so that's where I'd look first.
The replacement line is available on its own (YNI500030K), it's easy to replace and doesn't need the tank dropping...
If it’s directly from where top of fuel pump is, check the hoses going to fuel pump and make sure connection is good into the pump and if they’re ok then check each line for rub through. when do you see this leak, engine running or constant leak...
Loads of all of the above here but all parked up as projects in driveways. I got offered a D3 last week for 250 sovs
needs a sill welded & the starter live rewired. Got new nobby tyres on it so he just wants the sale price of the tyres.
that’s exactly my thoughts unless it’s been welded but it’s just chasing the worm really. I don’t see any d2’s around here at all now, 2023 I saw two but I checked the reg plates last year as remembered them and they’ve been scrapped.. ironically...
Surely all the d2 on original chassis must all be nearly fecked by now?
Still see the odd one about, but rarely, d1 none existent and d3 getting thin on the ground around here.